Red Cedar for Euro Tree??
General Topic
I was walking my hunting property this past weekend when I noticed a red cedar tree that had recently died. The tree has a straight trunk and is the appropriate size for a Euro tree. I would have to cut it to size, strip the bark, sand and seal it. QUESTIONS: Would a red cedar make a good Euro tree? If the trunk is properly sealed, will the cedar fragrance still come through? Is there any way to keep the trunk from cracking? If anyone has any images of red cedar Euro trees they'd be willing to share, I'd love to see them. Thanks.
JAW
Why would you seal it? If it’s going to be indoors I wouldn’t.
I’ve got several hand peeled posts around the house, but they’re all white pine.
Well, here is a red cedar I came across in Great Britain last summer.
Could hang a couple skulls on that one for sure.
—Jim
I seen a few photos somewhere with red cedars in mounts and see no reason why it would not work. I would say one of the key is to make sure that it dries out before you try to use it. You may want to cut it and seal the ends like they do with bow staves. Not sure about that thou. I like the cedar smell, but it will fade over time. If you seal it or varnish it, the smell is not as strong. Also, varnishing helps preserve the redness of the inner part of the tree that will fade over time if you do nothing to it. Helps this help.
unless it is rotten - it's cedar. If it's inside what can go wrong? It's not going to rot. I have cut several long cedar polls with the same thing in mind (except putting some shoulder mounts on a "deer tree" not euros. Also plan on using a few pieces on a pedestal mount. Does anyone have issue with bringing cut cedar wood in the home? (untreated?)
I hope not Jack, all the beams in my living room are cedar, as is my mantle and trim.
I have white cedar in the house but sealed it or it turns kind of grey.
You might get a few feathering or small splinters if you don’t seal it. May change color slightly over the years. Other than that it’s not a big issue. We’ve put them in a couple homes over the years.
Both stickbows and arrows can be made from cedar...
Think cedar chests or closets, not sealed, and after a few years loose their smell, which can be renewed with cedar oil. Available at Home Depot et al.
Terry
Here is one that's sealed. I like the gloss on it, think it looks pretty good and it's easier to clean.
Perfect timing on this as I have been googling this exact thing the past few days. One video I found the guy cut the cedar and then left it outside to cure for a year (I think he said a year). I need to go find one that is the right size to cut.
I have a long thick birch pole cut too, will make a deer mount tree out of. That and several long cedar poles. Well done catscratch!
Great looking tree, catscratch! Is the base made from a disc blade?
Also, any trophy pics of that top-right buck? He looks like a monster!
Thank you, everyone, for sharing your comments and expertise. I've been doing some more research today, and it seems like a product called Anchorseal 2, when applied to the fresh-cut ends of the trunk, can help minimize any checking/cracking. Has anyone had experience, positive or negative, with Anchorseal?
Don’t know of any product on the market that will minimize checking. Check is the wood releasing stress as it dries. It will help with the sap that will run out of the end of the trunk. We use a product from PermaChink to seal the ends of logs and posts.
One other thing. Make sure the post is dry before you seal it. If it has too much moisture in it, it can rot from the inside out. We replaced a whole house of log siding that was cut and installed wet/green.
Not Cedar, but I liked it because of the burl. I stripped the bark and sealed with clear polyurethane. If it’s cedar I wouldn’t seal it.
JAW......I’ve used Anchorseal (last year and again just a couple of weeks ago) on a walnut tree that I’m planning on sawing up to make a live edge dining room table, as well as a green ash with a huge burl on it, for a coffee table.
I was very impressed with the results from using it so far. I put it on the butt end and top cut of the walnut, as well as the cuts where I trimmed smaller limbs, well over a year ago. I just cut the walnut trunk into two 8’ pieces to haul to the sawmill, and I saw zero checking on any of the cuts that were made a year ago. The green ash was cut at the same time, but not coated with Anchorseal, and there was significant checking on that tree’s cuts. I didn’t treat that tree last year because the burl was a good distance from where the original cuts were made wasn’t going to be utilized for anything anyway. I recently cut the burl section out and treated both ends on that piece. No checking so far, but it’s only been a few weeks on those cuts. I anticipate excellent results on it as well.
If you’re only doing a couple of trees, a pint, or a quart at most, is all you would need. I bought a gallon of it and I still have over half of it left.
They dont call it aromatic red cedar for nothing
Glad to hear that Anchorseal worked well for you, Troy. I purchased a quart today and look forward to similar results. Thanks again, everyone, for the prompt replies.
It is a disc for the base.
Here is a pic of the the one on the top right from the field. Real symmetrical 12 with a kicker on his left base.
Another tree that I just put together yesterday. Not completely situated yet and only have 3 racks on it. I'll rearrange and add a couple as I get used to it. Not cedar though.
Another post in the basement that is cedar. An example of what cedar can look like but not an antler tree.
It is a disc for the base.
Here is a pic of the the one on the top right from the field. Real symmetrical 12 with a kicker on his left base.
Another tree that I just put together yesterday. Not completely situated yet and only have 3 racks on it. I'll rearrange and add a couple as I get used to it. Not cedar though.
Another post in the basement that is cedar. An example of what cedar can look like but not an antler tree.
Great buck, catscratch!
Here’s the ash log that I coated a month ago. It goes on pretty much, like a thick paint and has a waxy type texture. It’s hard to see in the pics, but there’s a coat of it on the log butts.
That burl is going to be awesome!
I’m hoping it’s not hollow. Here’s a pic of it before we cut it down. I wish I could figure out how to post the video of when we cut it down. It was hollow above the top burl, and when it hit the ground, the branches above the top burl snapped open. There was a nest of 5 coons living in the hollow, and they were none too happy about getting evicted!
Cedar rub tree, not sealed.
Nice pics..love wood....in its true sense
