Tip for QAD rest contact problem?
Equipment
I am requesting tip on how to get rid of blazer van contact with the QAD drop a way. I've used them for years with great success. Using foot powder spray as an indicator, I am having trouble getting rid of contact. This is needed before moving forward with other tuning and sighting. Is a slight contact acceptable or even unavoidable? Thanks for the help! After initial tie in, I have slightly shortened line, but did it slightly many times until finally, I think it was way too much tension.
Make sure you tie in the cord at least four and a half to five inches below the rest. Once it's tied in, loosen the set screw on the rest so that the cord still moves. Draw the bow to full draw and let down. Tighten that screw and you're done.
Also, don't hesitate to contact the manufacturer. I have done that a couple times in the past and they're always very willing to help support their outstanding products
Had same problem, Took back to archery shop tried everything, switched vanes still had issues. But I figured it out! Bought a Whisker Biscuit no more issues!
Same for me, I tried till I was blue in the face. Never could get it to my liking. Gone to a limb driven rest and never looked back.
—Jim
Make sure you use the TL1fork
Most people that have contact problems with a qad rest do not have that setup correctly.
Yep. Use the taller fork. Make sure the string is 4 or 5 inches down the cable. I was able to get some really good slo-mo video with my Samsung Galaxy of Empty Freezer's rest falling away in AZ last Jan. Might help you out.
I have the taller rest in place. Used the QAD "football" clamp for years. Had to have cams timed at proshop and they insisted on tying in the line. I now have fletching contact and am trying to make adjustments. Suggestions are appreciated. I've tried tightening as I stated in original post.
Suggest double-checking the distance per the attached picture.
Try lengthening the cord so that at full draw the timing marks on the rest just line up. It will make the rest fall a bit sooner. I had to do this with mine. I also went to a low pro 4 fletch.
If one is concerned about fletching contact how does going to a whisker biscuit, which is nothing but fletching contact, a solution
The biscuit gives pretty even contact around the shaft and vanes as where if you getting contact on a drop away it deflect arrow in a certain direction. I ain't no rocket scientist but pretty simple to figure that out. Shawn
What worked for me... Make sure the rest is coming to Full-Up one inch before you hit the stops..
It aint complicated. "Loosen the set screw on the rest so that the cord still moves. Draw the bow to full draw and let down. Tighten that screw and you're done."
Suggest making sure the cord is routed correctly per the picture. A few weeks ago I worked on a bow and messed-up. Had the cord routed wrong. It was coming off the rest 180 degrees out. Talk about vane contact!
If you have the "Hunter" model, it's really hard to tell if you're hitting the rest because it's not falling fast enough, OR if the rest forks are bouncing back up and then hitting the vane. . I would make sure you have the cock vane up, are using the taller launcher, and are following Russell's setup directions. . As for the uneducated remarks about WB rest vane contact... contacting all three vanes at the same time slows the arrow by approximately 3 fps. But it does not deflect the arrow like happens when only one side of the arrow has vane contact.
Thanks for the input. Cock feather is up. Set up has been done correctly. Will try to tweaking tension cord length shorter and then longer if necessary. Have gotten just a touch on hen vanes, (not contacting the whole length of vane). I am shooting the "hunter" model.
TJS,
Okay, now that I know it's the hunter model. You'll probably end up wanting the rest to stay up longer. 75% certain it's bouncing back up and hitting the vanes.
One other note: with that rest you might want to make sure you are pulling directly behind the nock. Use just a D-Loop without any additional tied nocksets below the nock inside the loop. Those will put downward pressure on the nock as you release.
I've seen slo-mo of a "properly" spined arrow, and there is very little if any flex by the time the nock leaves the string.
My un-fletched arrows punch perfect bullet holes through paper at zero yards through ten yards. Any significant flex would show as an oblong tear.
I don't know why QAD ever made that Hunter model. I've heard nothing but issues due to the bounce back.
Buy a Ripcord and be rid of all the headaches! I’ve shot them since inception and they are bombproof!
I’m zero help with the QAD rests. Hope you get issues solved though, sounds frustrating.
Dave, Both of those examples are FITA (Olympic archery) examples. Those are way underspined target arrows designed mostly for fingers shooters. Lets see you find an example using 300 spine shafts... from a properly tuned "hunting" setup.
Currently getting just a slight contact. One hen vane is only contacting on the rear portion giving evidence of the contact of from a "bounce back." Figure this might be the best I can get it. Arrows are flying and grouping very well out to 50 yards.
Thanks to those who were able to remain focused on helping eliminating contact when using the QAD.
Good to hear.
May I suggest you call the company and explain the issue. They might have a solution that wont cost much. Upgrade at cost?
I've spoken with them a few times. Very helpful each time. They even sent me complementary parts/supplies free of charge.
Conversing through emails with them now. Good company. As I've said previously, I've used their rests on quite a few bows previously and plan on continued use. I was just making adjustments after re-timing cams.
I'm sorry you feel that way Dave but, no I'm not wrong on this. . This isn't the thread for this discussion. I'd be happy to educate you on this if you care to be open minded enough to learn something new. If so, please start a new thread topic though.
That's just not true Dave. Olympic arrows are all shot with fingers per the rules of competition. When shooting with fingers, one "must" have arrow dynamic flex to properly offset the the string oscillation caused from going around the fingers. This is arrow dynamics. These olympic arrows are made long and skinny with most having a 600 or higher spine deflection. The points are tungsten steel which gives them an extreme FOC. The Easton shafts are double-tapered (barrel shaped) so they recover faster from the oscillation. There's been decades of research and science behind these shafts. My mentor was an engineer at Easton in the 70's and 80's working on the X-10 development. While I appreciate the efforts of the college kids that did your research, I'm going to fall back on the guys' who quite literally wrote the book on Olympic arrow shafts. .
Hunting arrows are a completely different engineering concept when shot out of a modern compound bow. These bows can now launch an arrow "almost" purely straight from the center of the center. Similar to a crossbow. I think even you can agree that there is NO arrow flex on a crossbow bolt. So it should be common knowledge that most hunters who are also good bow tuners can achieve a pure arrow launch from their compound bow with an arrow stiff enough that it does not flex at the shot.
Sure Dave, you forgot to mention the part at about 8:30 where the right handed guys arrow doesn't flex. This is why we keep preaching to go stiff with your arrow selection. If you put a fixed blade broadhead on the front of that lefties arrow, you can easily see why some guys have a hard time with it and switch to a mechanical broadhead.
Why do you think Easton has gone away from multiple aluminum arrow sizes. The advertising industry is slow to catch up but, 10 years from now, 90% of bowhunters will all be shooting 300 spine shafts. 400's won't be available in most arrow selections, other than trad arrow selections.
20 years ago a few of us here were preaching about the pros of twin-cam static yokes instead of singles and binary's. Mathews, Bowtech and Hoyt dominated the press and advertising so twin-cam bows nearly became extinct. Now they are mainstream again. So too shall the evolution of arrow sales evolve into stiffer and stiffer. The science backs it up. We just need to wait for the huddled masses to all become educated so the demand will follow. Right now, there is still consumer demand for 400 shafts. The bowhunting consumer world will catch up eventually.
Thank you for that youtube link. It really shows just why so many guys have trouble tuning broadheads. Trouble that would go away with a stiffer shaft.
