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Paper Tuning Question
I've got a 2012 Hoyt Vector 35 I've replaced string and cables and getting ready to paper tune, I haven't tuned a bow in a long time, since 2102! I'm a right handed shooter, with release aid, and drop away rest.
My question is, which way do I move the rest for tears?
Most guides online say for left and right tears move rest opposite direction, and for up and down tears move rest the same direction as tear.
I found an old thread on here about Hoyt bows with split buss cables and roller cable guards (which I have) saying move the rest in the direction of the tears
What have you guys found to be correct?
It's not an easy answer. It depends on what is causing a horizontal tear. It could be rest position, fletching contact, hand torque or cam lean/twist.
First, set the rest at approximately 13/16" (centerline of arrow) out from the riser. Use a bare shaft (no fletching) if you have one (this will eliminate fletch contact). Then report back with your tear. Or post a picture of your tear at approximately three, ten, and 15 feet from the bow.
Thanks x-man, I don't have a bare shaft, I stayed up late last night changing string and cables and tying on D loop, and peep sight, I'll start at 13/16" and see what happens with a fletched arrow, hopefully it tunes easy. I just haven't done it in so long I needed a quick refresher course, and was seeing conflicting information on the internets about how to correct the tears.
Meat Grinder's Link
Google “archery paper tuning chart”. Lots of images.
Have you set the bow to spec, meaning is it at factory brace height, is your axle to axle to spec and are your cams timed?
Thanks for the replies,
I got new GAS string/cables on (they are great), adjusted cam lean so there's no lean at full draw, set cam timing, checked ATA, Brace, got everything in spec's. Set nock point so I'm 90 deg to string & bottom of shaft at center of berger hole, set center shot dead center, which put center of arrow shaft 3/4" away from riser.
Its soooo close to a bullet hole through paper, there is ever so slightly a nock left tear. Its so close to a bullet hole I left it there for now. My next step was going to be adding a twist to my left yolk, but it's so close I couldn't make myself do it. I will shoot outside and do some broad head tuning and see what happens and adjust from there.
Cut the fletchings off of one of your arrows and bare shaft tune. Paper tuning is just to get you in the ballpark. Bare shaft tuning will dial it in.
You will end up closer to 13/16" centershot. ;)
Yes, bare shaft tune and use tip weight or insert weight to stiffen or weaken the arrow spine.
Please do not follow the Easton Tuning Guide....
Once you have things set up close , don't forget about shooting the string and cables in with a 125 or so shots. Then go back and check everything again.
Last I saw that Hoyt had lil fidget spinners at the ends of the limbs.... Just make sure spine is stiff enough at the shaft length you want and the head weight you want considering the bow it's coming off of and tune for effect.... you adjust the bow/rest on a compound, not so much the arrow. The arrow is the constant, all it has to be is stiff enough to not create an issue. You "tune" or adjust how it is launched.
Most if not all the new strings will be shot in after the first 15-20 shots. Amazing technology in these new strings and cables. If you want to make sure they have "settled" as far as they are going to just leave it in the vehicle a couple good hot days and that should do it..... (No. Don't really do that. Is'a joke son, I say is'a a joke...)
If you are really that close I wouldn't mess with anymore yoke tuning and dive right into whatever fine tune method you want using rest adjustments. I'm a fan of broadhead tuning but there are several other good methods.
Good Monday morning Bowsiters, I did end up moving the rest back to 13/16" from the riser to the center of the shaft, and starting at 0 cam lean, I ended up adding 2 twist to the left yoke, and removing 1 twist from right yoke, perfect bullet holes every shot now.
^This is an interesting topic. Can you post any pics?
no sorry I don't have any pics, the steps I took are described above, but I didn't take pics
That's good news. I'm glad you got it shooting good again.