Contributors to this thread:
Arrows sticking in the target
I got a new bow that is a LOT faster than my old bow. Now my arrows are sticking in the target, either the layered (Block type) or the 3d targets and they are a real pain to get out. My arrows are carbon and it's been taking two hands and a foot on the target to get them out.
Any suggestions to make it easier? TMBB
Ivory soap armor all Pam take your pick
At the speeds the friction is melting the target and seizing to a the shaft.
WD-40 on the tip. I shoot a bag target specifically for that reason.
I found this a real pain too.I resorted to buying an arrow puller. That alone didn't work so I bought some hose clamps and used them with arrow puller along with a modified 2x 4. It worked but it shouldn't be so difficult
I also use a small arrow puller for gripping the shaft as well as an arrow lubricant. Woody’s works well but is relatively expensive. I now use Gear Shield arrow slick. 2 bottles for $13 on amazon.
Get a bag target, only shoot the block with broadheads. It's crazy to go out and fight your target everytime you shoot.
amazon double D arrow puller
Ya know, they sell stuff for this condition. No prescription necessary ;-)
When I was shooting a lot of targets I had a stick of lubricant and it worked great.
I use a cheap flap of rubber used to remove jar lids as an arrow puller. You can get them in the grocery store.
Film cannister with an arrow sized hole drilled through lid. Use foam or cloth saturated with armor all in the cannister. Of course....film cannisters probably don't even exist now but you get the drift.
Woodys Arrow Lube. I hang an arrow puller next to my 3D target for the stubborn ones.
Shoot all aluminum or fmj arrows
Why use an arrow puller vs eliminating the need To use an arrow puller in the first place
Any bar soap rubbed on the first third of the arrow will prevent them from sticking.
Why? Because some of us shoot arrows into targets other than a bag sitting in the backyard or hunting camp.
Your selection in field tips can make a difference. They make some that are slightly larger (almost round on the tip). Theses allow the entrance hole in the target to be a fraction bigger than your arrow diameter (if shooting carbons). The size is not really noticeable when you insert them. If you’re using the pointed ones with the tapered tip, that will cause your arrow to be the “tightest hole”. Shooting at our club we use cardboard bundles, had the same issue until it was suggested to me...
I shot carbons many years ago for a short time, and tried all of the above suggestions. I got tired of the mess and hassle of lubing, which has to be reapplied after a few shots, and trying to get them out of targets. Carbon is just a terrible material for shooting into targets. Since I shoot way more arrows for practice into targets than I shoot into animals, and since FMJ arrows are about the best you can get anyway, I switched to them. Problems solved.
Small hotel bar of soap, rub It on the first few inches of the arrow
Or get fancy. I have a q inch pvc tube capped on bot ends. Inside is a piece of foam that holds liquid. One cap has a drilled hole. Spray any type of lubricant in. Dip the arrow every few shots
Go to a fabric store. Buy some polyester fiber fill for pillows and stuffed animal projects. Preferably in a sheet or pad form rather than a bag. Stick it on the front of your target... block or 3D.
Shoot through the poly fil for a while. Your arrows drag some fibers into the target and come out much easier and after several rounds, you can take the poly fil off and the embedded fibers will make arrow removal very easy for quite a while. No soap or oil or Pam or anything on your arrows.
X2 Sand man, rounded field tip rather than pointed field tip helps for me, especially in 3D targets.
Bowfreak, film canisters may be hard to find but diabetics, like me, use test strips. The canister that the strips come in are close to the same size as film canisters. Any diabetic that uses strips will have dozens of empty containers. They will also hold black power, primers, bullets for muzzle loading. Will hold a nice amount of 22 long rifle bullets too.
I wonder if I put a small washer on behind the field point that would make the hole a bit bigger than the arrow shaft? TMBB
Sure but again why solve a simple addition problem using advanced calculus. Spray some pam on the arrows occasionally or apply periodic soap. You are done and don’t need to be modifying points collars shafts etc. don’t overthink this. Just shoot
The complicated stuff in life is complicated enough without turning the simple stuff into complicated stuff to too
Does Pam work on a Matrix target?
Does Pam work on a Matrix target?
Maybe physics but certainly not calculus. Certainly more than one way to skin a cat, but if I can just put a proper point on my arrow and be done with it then that’s as simple as it gets for me. The narrow, pointy head on the top is a bitch to pull out of a 3D target compared to the other on the bottom. To each his own and do what works for you.
Putting a point on that's bigger than the arrow shaft creates a lip that also makes it harder to pull, and also tends to enlarge the hole, wearing out the target quicker. The reason for the shape of the target point on top in the above photo is because they're easier on target foam.
Slik tips pull easier and do not rust.
Those are what my wife uses for 3d