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Arrow inserts coming out

So I just got a new block target not to long ago( it wasn't cheap) and my arrow insterts are coming out after just a few shots into it! Easton 6.5 arrows and the inserts that come with them. I can't rember the name of the insterts. CB something I believe. Is there a certain type of field tip your suppose to use on these type of targets or something? or did the guy just do a bad job when he put the inserts in?

So I just got a new block target not to long ago( it wasn't cheap) and my arrow insterts are coming out after just a few shots into it! Easton 6.5 arrows and the inserts that come with them. I can't rember the name of the insterts. CB something I believe. Is there a certain type of field tip your suppose to use on these type of targets or something? or did the guy just do a bad job when he put the inserts in?

Same issue here, same inserts. I've lost 2 now. I'm using the Bohning Ferr-L-Tite cool flex.

Is it the insert or am I doing something wrong?

Probably not if we both are having the same problem. Must be the inserts

I did clean the inside of the shaft with a q-tip dipped alcohol, but not the insert itself.

See if the glue is stuck to the insert, the shaft, or if it failed through the joint interface. That will tell you if it was the shaft prep, the insert prep, or the adhesive.

The guys at the pro shop did mine...should I demand they redue them or demand a refund? I don't wanna be an A- hole about the situation and I won't but it is kind of frustrating...just curious if it's the inserts themselves or the people who put them in..

I would ask the pro shop to fix the problem. It tends to go better when You ask rather than demand. It is that human nature thing.

I long ago stopped buying finished arrows and went to rolling my own. Process: (1) Roughen the inside of the shaft with a .270-caliber bore brush. (2) Thoroughly clean the inside with Q-tips soaked with 91% isopropyl alcohol--not the 70% rubbing alcohol, which contains oils. Let the alcohol dry/dissipate. (3) Slightly roughen the insert with file, sandpaper, etc. and also clean with iso alcohol. (4) Coat both the insert and shaft with 24-hour epoxy (not the 5-minute stuff) and glue them up. I've always used JB Weld, but there are probably other brands that also work well.

Other methods will work, of course, but I can't recall losing an insert in the 15-20 years I've used the aforementioned procedure.

Rsqyared maybe you ask if they could help vs making demands. Sometimes people notice and reward that distinction

The only insert glue I have ever used is hot melt. Just clean the inside of the arrow. I use a little tool that holds the insert and then apply the glue to the insert. Push it into the arrow shaft and let it cool. No problems over 30 years doing it this way.

yep, Stanley super strength hot melt

Shop probably used 1 minute epoxy or a quick set ready to use glue with no prep work. They have to move arrows in a few minutes, so no slow set glue. Just ask the shop nicely and they may try to fix them for you.

If you want to have your inserts in forever then use Easton Hit insert epoxy. If you want to be able to remove them use the Stanley (WapitiBob above ) or blue stick hot melt and do a little scrub up of the inside of the shaft and out side of the insert with sand paper. Then clean both well with alcohol. They will never come out, but with careful work you can remove the hot melted inserts by screwing in a preheated field point. Hot melt does not work the best on HIT inserts where you have exposed carbon and not a full insert or half out. Guys do it but got to be careful not to over heat the carbon.

If you use hot melt and HIT inserts and want to remove them it’s pretty simple. Like mentioned above, use a heated fieldpoint screwed into the insert. Don’t heat the carbon! I just use a little torch and heat the fieldpoint and then a pair of pliers and a little pull and out it comes. Make sure to check your arrow though because it’s easy to overheat the fieldpoint and insert if you aren’t careful.

That's what I meant, I wasn't going to demand it... I expect they would offer to redue them... Things can come off the wrong way when your communicating through typing..

And yes the whole process of the guy going back to cut the arrows and then handing them to me wasn't long at all so there was no slow set glued in my situation, man I am getting tired of this tho. It's frustrating. The hardest and most difficult part of archery hunting( whitetails) for me, has been getting my equipment to perform correctly. It's always something..

Do as others said just use slow cure JB Weld, you will have no issues. Shawn

It all depends on the shafts. I was shooting Carbon Express for years using hot melt. I never had an insert pull out. Then I switched to Beaman and Easton and right off the bat I had inserts pulling out in a Block target just like yours. The shafts were prepared identically. I used Goat Tuff and epoxyand problem solved. I use a wood burning tool to remove the inserts. I cut off a field point and fitted it into the wood burning tool. Put the arrow into a padded vise, screw in the burning tool, keep a pulling pressure on the tool, and out comes the insert. When I used Goat Tuff and epoxy on Carbon express I would damage the shafts when removing the inserts. That's why I started using hit melt. However, I can pull the inserts out of the Beaman and Easton without any damage to the shafts that were glued in with the Goat Tuff and epoxy. Go figure.

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