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A little bit different kind of a survey. Of elk you have killed once you recover your arrow how sharp was broadhead after it done it's job , I know sometimes they hit rocks or whatever, just ones that hit elk meat or bones. What broadhead and how sharp or dull would you say it was .
I shot a bull with a 150, non-vented 3 blade VPA that penetrated from between the neck and shoulder to just in front of the hind quarters. The broadhead just came through the hide. The arrow was intact and undamaged except for staining on the vanes. The head was extremely sharp after the shot. I ran it over a stone to sharpen it just because it seemed like the right thing to do. We processed the bull in the dark with the gutless method and I have no idea what it hit for bones going in.
Son, daughter, and I have killed 7 bulls with Wasp Jak-Hammers. The 6 we found where all in good shape and still sharp on recovery. I like American made Wasp!
I’ve killed one elk with a Iron Will 125 V. It was a pass through, 10-15 yards past the bull. That BH was in perfect shape and still very sharp. I’ve killed several other animals smaller than elk, with same results.
I have never checked and don't really care. If it did its job it doesn't matter. I wouldn't use it again with out a good once over and sharpening any way.
Everything I killed with muzzy’s always had to be replaced but they did their job. Some bear razor heads had to be replaced and some didn’t. Did their job. The last one I killed was with a cutthroat and it’s in great shape and still shaved hair off my arm easily. I touched it up and it’s ready to go when I draw a tag again.
Ironwill and blade was still fairly sharp
Ironwill and blade was still fairly sharp
I have killed with a QAD Exodus and a Slick Trick Viper Trick....both were in great shape after recovery. This year I am using Valkyrie 150 gr.
qad exodus, I think around 9 elk and 6 moose, ive never been disappointed in the condition of the head and sharpness
Killed several bulls with Thunderhead 100grain heads, and was very satisfied with their performance. Sometimes the blades were almost as good as new, and sometimes they were chundered up a bit. However, I’m with WYelkhunter &dbschindler above. I always replaced the blades after running one through an animal (or into the dirt). I’d also save used blades that were in good shape to shoot into the target vs using target shot blades while hunting.
200 grain Abowyer Boneyard after pass-through shot on 6x6 bull. Unscathed.
I can't say I ever shot an animal and would have felt comfortable shooting the broadhead again without touching it up.. It just doesn't seem nearly as sharp as before the shot.
I've shot lots of elk with Magnus Stingers and Buzzcuts. Some were still sharp and others weren't. I usually retire them or use for practice. I always spin test them to make sure they spin true.
Most of them shave like this. This is after I got home from putting it through a buck and before cleaning it off and resharpened. Note: they will never get sharper after you shoot them. Only more dull old sons.
I have killed 7 bulls with VPA 100gr. Unvented heads. I know for sure that 3 of the bulls were with the exact same head. I did touch them up once they have been shot but would have confidence in them if I had to pick it up off the ground and shoot it again I would. 3 of these broadheads are in my quiver today. Solid Steel heads don't bend or break. The only one's I've shot that are not in my quiver is because it was a complete pass through with no arrow recovery. Been in this game a long time and don't plan on changing from VPA anytime soon as I have had no complaints.
I’ve used 6-8 different brands of broadheads on elk, both one piece and replaceable blades. Since nothing gets put in my quiver without either new blades or being resharpened, I’ve never checked for sharpness afterwards. They did their job initially so that’s all I’m concerned about.
Slick trick viper tricks, rocket steelheads,nap spitfires all in great shape just going through an elk
I almost always get a pass through, otherwise I wouldn’t need to buy many broadheads.
The viper tricks usually survive the rock hit’s after they did there jobs. The mechanicals usually bend the blade a little bit, and I just replace the blades. Ferrules are very strong on spitfires and steelheads
Magnus Stingers have held up well, I've re-used them on other animals after killing elk, but I always touch up my broadheads before I hunt with them.
Rocky Mountain 3 blades & never checked sharpness after.
What I'm interested in is blade sharpness . I trap coyotes and usually there is mud on them ,when I skin them using a havalon knife it dulls very very quickly if any dirt on Hyde, or after skinning out the head ,
It’s a great question that is being glossed over! Just because your animal died when you made a perfect shot doesn’t mean your broadhead is worth a hoot!! How a broadhead maintains sharpness is very, very important. That’s why broadheads like an Iron Will have become so popular. It maintains sharpness after cutting through the hide, breaking a rib in half and THEN doing its damage on internal organs. A less expensive broadhead with easy to dull steel will be dull by the time it even gets through the hide. It may still kill the animal if it continues on through the lungs or heart but the blood trail will be much longer, maybe long enough that you won’t find the animal. If it is an angling back shot it will go through liver and guts and may not even kill the animal within 8-10 hrs. Jump that animal from its bed and it will travel miles and be lost to the hunter. If the head stays sharp it’s a dead critter in no time! It’s all the difference in the world.
Crappy broadheads made with steel that dulls easily is a real problem in our industry. Many of the broadheads listed above are complete crap under a variety of shot placement situations.
On my above post regarding viper tricks, rocket steelheads, and spitfires when I say they are in great shape after going through an elk I mean they are sharp enuff they could be used to shoot another animal generally as they are. I do always touch up with a sharpener after cleaning them though.
I use VPA 150 3 blade. They maintain sharpness pretty well after the shot. I am on a new head for this year with 1 kill on it. The last one I ran through 5 animals before the tip bent ever so slightly on a whitetail shoulder blade shot. By the way it went through the blade area of the shoulder like butter. They sharpen so easily I cannot imagine retiring one just because I shot an animal with it.
I’ve had blades dinged up pretty bad, and some I could re use had I chose to.