Contributors to this thread:
Noticed my peep starting to twist a little while shooting this summer. Not much, but enough that I tried to do something about it. I had read that twisting the peep the opposite direction it is turning and then inserting a small tool to hold the string there, while it is at rest, will help with straightening it out. I found a small allen key to do that and tried it for a few weeks, between shooting sessions. Didn't seem to make much of a difference. I expect, I need to put it in a press to add, or take out, a twist or two in the string.
But, it is hunting season and the closest bow press to me is an hour away. I can still give it a twist, whenever I nock an arrow, and it will stay fairly straight. I practice with my judo, when there are no critters about, while hunting, and shoot an occasional grouse, so it lines up fine still. But, I would like to have it straight without having to check it frequently. Anyone know a method to help with this?
Mine does that sometimes. I just hold the string still and twist my loop a little. Loop at rest is out of kilter, but as I draw it straightens out and pulls the peep back into alinement.
The best thing to do is put in press and twist or untwist string a half turn. If you can't get to a bow press the second best thing is what zeke said. Have your d-loop turned so it corrects peep issue.
Simplest solution is to move your peep up or down. It only takes a millimeter or two to get it back where it needs to be.
While moving the d-loop on the string to align with the peep can work, I personally would drive the hour to the nearest press and add/delete a twist in the string to get it right.
I wouldn't raise/lower the peep to address the issue - there is a reason your peep is at the height it is.
Keep in mind that your peep is moving because your string material is creeping (permanent elongation) and that may continue to occur, so it might be time to consider replacing your string/cables.
I'm not a fan of any of the suggestions, so far.
If you are as meticulous about tuning as I am, pressing and twisting the string to align the peep is not a good solution because it will change the tune. I know, it may be very slight, but it will be enough to affect the impact of a bare shaft at 40 yards.
Turn the loop? I don't like that one because it introduces a "rudder" affect to the string, which can adversely affect nock travel.
Sliding the peep up or down? Nope. That will change your anchor, and probably require you to re-sight in your pins.
IMO, the best thing to do, if you are happy with the tune on your bow, is to carefully mark the location of the peep. Then press the bow just enough to put a little slack in the string. Take the peep out and re-split the fibers of the string, then re-install the peep. It may take a few attempts to find where the proper split should be, but I can usually get it done in I-2 attempts.
Just my 2 cents,
If you can press your bow and put slack in the string, separate the two strings and put a piece of dental floss about 4" long through the separated bowstring. Relax the bowpress, leaving the floss trapped between the two strings. You can grab the floss and slide it up and down in the string and your peep will twist, this is good for minor adjustments. You can even make an adjustment when practicing or when up a tree. Then just wax the floss into your bowstring and its ready for the next time.
I forgot to add, put the floss in above your peep.
more importantly buy a bowmaster portable press for about 60 bucks and you will never be an hour from a press again. more than sufficient for they type of work we do on our equipment a couple times a year.
First of all...twisting the string does not change the tune! Twisting the cables changes the tune.
I also do not recommend sliding the peep while under tension. That can cut string strands.
The safest thing you can do by yourself at home is to turn the string loop a little to compensate. Then get yourself to a bow press as soon as you are able to correct the problem.
An aside....with APA bows, you don't need a bow press. You can swap strings or cables in the field. I just had to adjust my peep yesterday afternoon probably in less than 90 seconds.
I have never found that twisting the string the 1/2 to 1 twist to correct peep rotation affected the tune at all (nor should it) or that adjusting the string or D loop to account for a "slight" alignment issue or to fine tune alignment to affect arrow flight. Sometimes I just can't quite get it there with twisting the string. Maybe I just can't shoot the difference. I also do not recommend moving the peep while under tension. Take the time to remove the tension and then move the peep. I bought a bowmaster portable press years ago as I live no where near a shop.
For small minor adjustment I move my loop. Been doing that for years. So far never a problem. At most I don't think the string moves more than a 1/16 to 1/8 of a twist after doing so, from brace to full draw. never tried the floss thing, next time I may.
I believe it was Randy Ulmer, who I think most would agree has forgotten more about bow tuning than most of us will ever know, explained it this way. He said think of your loop like a tiny rudder on your string, just like a rudder on a boat or airplane. If you rotate your loop in any direction other than on the same plane that the string travels, as soon as you release the arrow, the loop will begin to rotate back to that position, and will act like a rudder steering the string just like a rudder steers a boat or airplane. It can result in the arrow fish-tailing. At one time there was super-slow motion video of this somewhere on the interwebs, but I can't find it, now. Anyway, I can't prove it, but the theory made sense to me.
As for twisting the string not affecting tuning... Every new string that I've ever installed on my bows has required a "break-in" period for them to stretch to a length that they will stay at for a while. In my experience, it usually takes around 100-200 shots for them to settle in. During that period the tune on my bows has constantly changed. Nowadays, I don't even bother fine-tuning my bows until the string has settled in. So, if string stretch changes the tune on the bow, wouldn't it stand to reason that twisting or untwisting the string would also change the tune of the bow? Aren't you effectively changing the draw length, cam rotation, and ATA of the bow when you twist the string?
Xman, please correct me, If I'm wrong. I've alway respected your bow tech knowledge. And I admit that I've been out of the tech loop for quite a while.
"I have never found that twisting the string the 1/2 to 1 twist to correct peep rotation affected the tune at all (nor should it) or that adjusting the string or D loop to account for a "slight" alignment issue or to fine tune alignment to affect arrow flight."
Yeah, I've done that a few times recently (added 1/2 or a full twist to get he peep right) and I couldn't discern any difference in terms of tune of change in point of impact at any yardage Perhaps someone who is as good an archer as Randy Ulmer could, but I doubt many (if any) who frequent this site could.
I twist the string and there’s zero impact on tune. If the peep is off just a little a twist of the bottom in the direction it needs to go is a good place to start. If it’s off a moderate amount I’ll twist the top the direction it needs to go and twist the bottom the opposite direction.
A full twist or half twist will have no measurable impact on cam timing, rotation, ATA or brace height. Now a half twist of a buss or control cable will change cam timing by about 1/8”.
I twist my string to get the peep aligned properly and I also adjust the loop so it’s in the right position before drawing and shooting to check the peep alignment.
As GG mentioned, all final adjustments are best done after a few hundred shots to ensure the string is settled
"Every new string that I've ever installed on my bows has required a "break-in" period for them to stretch to a length that they will stay at for a while. In my experience, it usually takes around 100-200 shots for them to settle in. During that period the tune on my bows has constantly changed."
So you replace the string without replacing the cables?
Midwest, yes, in some cases I have when the string shows more wear than the cables.
Matt, The string has no affect on cam synch. Twisting the string may change the draw length by .01" per half-twist at most. I'd bet my paycheck that you subconsciously do that already while at full draw.
I think we can all agree that the only "correct" fix is to put the bow in a press and give the string a half twist. If I'm at my deer stand and notice my peep is slightly off, I'm going to give my loop a small turn to correct.
Midwest, yup, when time allows, when I have to swap out string and cables, I do them one at a time. Swap one, get it settled via 100ish shots, retune everything. Do the next piece, repeat 3 times. That way, when something is off, I know it's the new string/cable I just did.
Takes time, but if you have the time, try it!
Work on turning peeps all the time. And adding 1/2 a twist will do nothing for a peep. Adding twists to the string does not effect cam timing or tuning. If it does, your bow isn't tuned very well to start. And if you buy new strings from a reputable string maker, you won't need 100 shots to settle a new string. Most new strings should have zero stretch or creep.
Put the bow in press, mark the peep, take the peep out and shoot the bow a few times and reinstall the peep. If you twist the loop to align the peep, stretch the loop loop before shooting.