Thanks
If you plant your brassicas in early Aug. I would just plant right on through whatever buckwheat is present. By the time you come back a month'ish later and plant your rye...the buckwheat is very likely to be all but gone...all on its' own. Or you could just sow your rye over whatever buckwheat is left and then mow it so as to create a mulch over your fresh rye seed. As long as your rye seed gets to the soil surface, you should be golden. I would not spray though...I don't think you will need to and I wouldn't want to risk any drift over to the nearby young brassicas.
Be aware that buckwheat is very vulnerable to a late frost, be sure to plant AFTER any threat of frost in the spring. Otherwise, I would select my planting date with the idea in mind that I want that buckwheat to fade out in about the mid-August timeframe.
The drawback of buckwheat is that it because it's so fragile and leafy, it doesn't leave as much organic matter on the top that you might hope for using a no-till/throw-and-mow(roll)/soil building strategy. I tried it for my first no-till (against advice), but it was on bare ground that had been recently bulldozed. It came up great - and the bees! I'll never forget the sound of the whole field buzzing with so many getting after the flowers! But once I planted into it and knocked it down, 2 weeks later there wasn't much protecting the seeds like you would get if it were wheat or rye. If you've ever seen a new lawn planted, where they cover the seed with hay and/or moss - that's sort of what you're trying to do with this type of no-till strategy. The overall goals to (1) always have something growing and (2) increase your organic matter by rolling/crimping/etc. that crop on top of the next. It basically turns the top of the ground into a compost of dead material that then bring in bugs and worms and creates a good bed for the next seed to grow in.
I'm no expert. I try like hell but I keep learning. This year I'm going into rye with clover and chicory just to have something that requires a little less time. The only reason it will be a success (finger crossed) is because I've done about 7-8 years of T&M. So I've now got some organic matter on top of the clay for things to grow in.
Good luck! Have fun!
Stressless's Link
I tried the UNT and EZ Plot by Jeff last year. A few IF"S
IF the deer don't eat it too the dirt you Might be okay - they did in OH. I wrote up the results in an OH forum, this one is just hard to add content too so if you want to I documented my results, split between Brassics and Greens and went the hold 9 yards to try and make it happen. Just not enough Ag around me to release the browse pressure.
This post is where I started the capture of the buckwheat side. https://theohiooutdoors.com/threads/stressless-farm-blog-wildlife-habitat-improvements.26114/#post-825965
SO I'm moving the plots I tried that in back to mixed legumes and overseeding with rye. It's by far the best bang for the $/Buck
35acre is on the money with the mixed legumes and overseeding rye.
OBTW they ate my brasssicas side down to the dirt as well. Furry bastards!
This is the activity on one of my late winter plots, Legumes with overseeded rye. strong draw, they'll work to get that green.
What's really great is that t here is food in the plots/ keeps some food for them until spring green up. you can see the 2" of rye that's been browsed chin high prior to the woods green-up.
My #1 trick is to blow the leaves off ~ March and frost seed every other year or so. That gives the turkeys something to come into as well.
That entire thread is here: Stressless #1 Tip for Frost Seeding/Spring food plot prep for Turkey hunting
https://theohiooutdoors.com/threads/stressless-1-tip-for-frost-seeding-spring-food-plot-prep-for-turkey-hunting.26171/#post-718531