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FOC With A 32" Draw
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
Willcz 27-Mar-22
Beendare 27-Mar-22
Matt 27-Mar-22
MA-PAdeerslayer 27-Mar-22
Juancho 27-Mar-22
WV Mountaineer 28-Mar-22
Woody 28-Mar-22
Bowfreak 28-Mar-22
Willcz 28-Mar-22
Bowfreak 28-Mar-22
x-man 29-Mar-22
Coondog 29-Mar-22
Willcz 30-Mar-22
Juancho 30-Mar-22
12yards 30-Mar-22
wyobullshooter 30-Mar-22
Bowfreak 30-Mar-22
RCDuck 06-Apr-22
HDE 06-Apr-22
From: Willcz
27-Mar-22
Looking for some help. I finally got myself a bow with the correct DL for me. Matthews Atlas w/32" DL and set at 65#. Not sure of speed. I am shooting Easton Axis 300 5mm. Arrow Length 32&1/8 and my balance length was 19&3/4 = FOC = 11.75%. 125 Gr FP's and BH's. I am shooting a lot and I seem to have a little more wobble at 40-60 yards than normal. Do I need to add even a little more weight to the end. Any thoughts on getting this dialed in.

From: Beendare
27-Mar-22
Tuning is your problem not FOC

Follow one of the many tuning guides free on the internet.

From: Matt
27-Mar-22
You might find someone with archery software to confirm whether you are spined correctly. With that long a draw/cut length, 300's are very likely underspined. Just running the numbers through the Easton spine selector, it says you would need a 240-260 spine and that assumes a 100 gr. head. More point weight will only make that worse.

Arrows don't fly well out of the bow and then start to wobble at 40+ yards, that is not how it works. They would be wobbling more coming out of the bow and cleaning up due to fletching drag at longer distances.

Sometimes lighting can cause people to see something that isn't there as well. I would shoot paper, bare shaft, or broadheads vs fixed blades to determine what that tells you.

Ignore FOC.

27-Mar-22
Matt 2. Sounds under spined

From: Juancho
27-Mar-22
You can try some 250 spine. I quit compounds in '93 when it was almost impossible to find a bow with a 32.5" DL. I've been shooting recurve since and change my form and lowered my DL to just over 31". For that set up I would use Grizzly Sticks 240 , which is what I use on my 88# recurve . The output of my recurve may be very similar to your 60# Matthews

28-Mar-22
I agree with Matt. You are underspined. I’d go to a stiffer spine or put a 3-4” aluminum collar over the point end of the 300’s. That will increase the spine just enough to make those work. Of course, tune it to ensure.

From: Woody
28-Mar-22
Wouldn't backing the weight down in increments till flight cleans up, show the problem is with arrow spine?

From: Bowfreak
28-Mar-22
I doubt you will ever get 300 spine arrows to work for you. You need 260s or stiffer. You definitely can't worry about FOC because adding any point weight to your setup is going to yield a weak shaft at your DL. Also....there is no need to be shooting a 32" arrow. You need to cut your arrows as short a possible to stiffen them.

From: Willcz
28-Mar-22
I need to shoot 32 inch arrows since they only hang about 1 inch off the rest. I have a very LD. Looks like I will need the 260's. I think I might try backing off on the poundage so see if it works and then buy the shafts if I straighten out at say 58-60 pounds. I do see wobbling starting out at the 35+ range all the way in. Any additional thoughts would be appreciated. You guys have been a big help

From: Bowfreak
28-Mar-22
Will,

My point is that if you are shooting a true 32" measured draw, you could easily shoot a 30.5" to 31" arrow. DL is measured to throat of the grip plus 1.75"....so if your DL is actually measuring 32", the distance from your nocking point to the berger hole would be about 30.25".

If you are shooting 32" arrows at 65 you will need the stiffest arrows you can get your hands on. I would also consider moving my rest as far back as possible to allow you to cut your arrows even shorter.

If you can find a hunting shaft in .200 spine, I'd go for it.

From: x-man
29-Mar-22
FYI, arrow length is measured from the throat of the nock(the part that touches the string) to the cut-end at the front(not to the point).

From: Coondog
29-Mar-22
Your arrows are too long. If you listen to guys with long draw lengths like yourself (Levi, Dudley, etc), they cut their arrows as short as possible to keep the arrows stiffer.

From: Willcz
30-Mar-22
Just ordered myself a 1/2 dozen of 260 cut to 31". Call me whatever but I am not used to the point being so darn close to my hand. A long way back before containment rests I put an arrow right through the web at the base of my fingers. OUCH!.

I will let you know how they work out compared to the 300 cut to 32"

TIA

From: Juancho
30-Mar-22
Grizzly Sticks have 170 spine, which I use on my 98# recurve at full length for my 31.2 " DL. Only problem is price. I think some other company makes all the way to 150 spine for less money. I just like how tough the Grizzly Sticks are.

From: 12yards
30-Mar-22
You will struggle with high FOC with your draw length and arrow length. The good news is, with your draw length, whatever arrow you shoot will be a pile driver and devastating to whatever it comes in contact with.

30-Mar-22
^^^^ That. I wish I had your “problem “! ;-)

From: Bowfreak
30-Mar-22
Will,

I can understand. It is an uneasy feeling.

From: RCDuck
06-Apr-22
Similar specs for me.....32.5" DL, 70 lbs. I've had pretty good luck with the Black Eagle Spartans in 250 cut to 31" with 125 Gr heads. At 65#, you should be able to add a little more weight to your insert to increase FOC. Or you could go with the Spartans in 200 and add quite a bit of weight... but give up some speed to do so. I like to build the heaviest arrow I can and still shoot around 270 fps.

From: HDE
06-Apr-22
You shouldn't have more "wobble" the farther the arrow travels downrange regardless of weight FOC, BOC, or MOC...

The "wobble" is just exacerbated from its release "wobble" at 5 yards out.

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