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Brush cutter help please?
I broke my brush cutter ------ sooooooo now I'm in need of a replacement.
I'm looking for a hand held brush cutter ... the kind with a round saw blade for trimming back trails and shooting lanes. I've been doing research --- there are a bunch of them and a lot of them come with a bunch of junk attachments. I already have a weed whip, all I'm looking for is the brush cutter.
Anyone with experience on a decent one that wont break the bank? Gas - not electric.
I've had a Stihl for eleven years with zero problems. It's a straight shaft and can change attachments. I'll use the saw like blade, but if the stuff gets thicker I'll use the 12" chain saw attachment plus you can overhead prune with it. The three prong saw blade works great on briars and "hard" weeds.
Stijl here as well. I use it for exactly what you intend. Very happy with it!
I have had a Stihl 750 for at least 17 years and it has been super. I like the brush cutter blade that has chainsaw teeth on it every 3-4". I use it for everything including cleaning out fences and it cuts up to 2-3" saplings very well and the chainsaw toothed has little back kick like the notch brush blade.
Buy a 30cc or greater cutter!
Buy a 30cc or greater cutter!
Stihl FS131R - Do not even mess with the so called brush cutter blades. They are worthless. Get a carbide blade that matches what you are cutting. I cut everything from Cattails to 3 inch hard wood trees with mine. One of the best tools I have. Here is the link to the blades that work great---https://www.ebay.com/str/bgintlrenegadeblade?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2563
The blades that Ben above describes were called Hurricane blades made by Sindaiwa. They are no longer made and I bought the last one I could find about 3 years ago. Only the ones with a whole bunch of teeth are available from Forester. They bog down the cutter to much and do not cut for crap. Carbide ones I posted above are the best I have found.
I have had stihl,husqvarna ,and echo forestry clearing saws. Echo is about half as much (but still about 500 dollars) and works as well. I put serious use them and they are awesome ,but be sure to get one of the aftermarket blades that you can sharpen with a chain saw file
Our club bought a Stihl FS 360, the kind that hangs from a vest. Has 'handle bars.' Not cheap, but awesome. (I maintain 2+ miles of 3D trail. I use blades and a heavy string trimmer head depending on what section I'm on.)
Make sure you have the bull horn handle bars when using a blade to help with kick back. Going on 10 years with my FS 90R with out a service or any issues.
I have the stihl with multiple attachments as well. i use the 12" chainsaw more than anything else for brush trimming. I weedeat with the other attachment all the time. Never seen those circular teeth blades. I need to get one of those.
For heavy grass and weeds use the Tri pointed disc, not the four sided grass disc. Works much better.
Those three-prong blades are *scary* when they get going ;-)
As long as it's just 'grass and weeds' I'm ok with .095 string. For actual wood or tough vines, it's blades.
KHNC, the nice part is you don't have to bend over to cut stuff off at ground level, like you would with a chain saw.
Thanks everyone, appreciate the info.
I use the tri tip blade in the pasture to take out thistle and cocklebur. Night and day difference than the using the string whipper.
I have an older Stihl homeowner grade weed-whacker. Looks like the one Joehunter posted. I hope that blade he posted will fit mine, that would be a gamechanger. I have a brand new 18hp DR Field and Brush mower that is waaay better than the one I bought in 2009 and just got rid of, so that is perfect for overgrown fields and cutting deer trails. But having a saw blade on my Stihl weed whacker would be great.
Husqvarna 555fx if your serious. Not cheap but will cut a 4” sapling like a scythe
Stijl FS 560 perfect for clearing scrub and thick brush,had one for 4 years and hadn’t missed a beat.
joehunter - I have a Stilh Kombi with weed eater attachment and was looking at your link of Renegade Blades, there are a bunch, which one do you recommend? Thanks...
I personally would NOT use carbide-tipped blades. Too many rocks here, and I don't need carbide chips coming off at high speed. I buy cheap $20 steel blades, easy to re-sharpen with a file. When they're past sharpening I toss 'em. Generally go thru one or two a season, when clearing 'new' trails. Once the trail is established I can 95% maintain it with the string head. Hand snips for oak suckers.