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Best Way to Add 25 Grains Carbon Arrows
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
badbull 18-Sep-22
fdp 18-Sep-22
WV Mountaineer 18-Sep-22
DanaC 18-Sep-22
So467 18-Sep-22
Tilzbow 18-Sep-22
fdp 18-Sep-22
Blood 18-Sep-22
WV Mountaineer 18-Sep-22
BOWNUT 18-Sep-22
Corax_latrans 19-Sep-22
PECO2 19-Sep-22
x-man 19-Sep-22
Ken 19-Sep-22
12yards 19-Sep-22
badbull 19-Sep-22
Bowfreak 19-Sep-22
From: badbull
18-Sep-22
I just upgraded my granddaughter's field points to 125 Grains from 100 grains. What would be the best/easiest solution to convert some of her carbon arrows in order to utilize her existing 100 grain broadheads? Anyone use an add-on type weight (25 Grains) ? Thanks for any help or experience that you may have, Badbull

From: fdp
18-Sep-22
25gr. weight collar behind the point. Although it isn't likely to make any difference in the grand scheme of things. 25grs. doesn't change dynamic spine reaction hardly at all.

18-Sep-22
Agree with fps.

Something to ponder. I think the average carbon insert is 20-30 grains. Adding a brass insert weighing 50 grains is going to put you in the neighborhood of what you want.

Braveheart archery sells them very affordable. I mention them because there is no penalty to order such a small monetary amount of stuff. He packs and ships his stuff. Therefore, Shipping is much cheaper then the big stores.

From: DanaC
18-Sep-22

DanaC's Link

From: So467
18-Sep-22
Get a long Allen wrench and add a screw to the back of the insert that weights 25 grains

From: Tilzbow
18-Sep-22
I wouldn’t add any weight between the broadhead and the insert, that’ll weaken the attachment. As suggested by So467, get some screw in weights that screw into the back of the insert and use a long hex wrench to install. Both can be purchased from Lancaster or Three Rivers.

From: fdp
18-Sep-22
Adding a weighted collar between the back of the broadhead and the insert will have -0- impact on strength. The weak links in tubular arrows are the inserts in the arrows and the threaded shank on the point, and then the hollow tube itself.

From: Blood
18-Sep-22
Yeah. An Iron Will 25 Gr collar would work. Add a long wrap and a lighted nock. That would work too.

18-Sep-22
Look up sapcut if you go the footed route. He makes and sells aluminum footings for all carbon shafts. I bought some about two months ago. Added about 24 grains to the front.

Plus, they glue down over the stock insert. Eliminating that weak link. You’ll never mushroom another carbon shaft with a footing.

I’m not knocking the new carbon “collars”. I don’t even know how they install. Just saying an aluminum shaft has been working flawless for me the last 10 years. At $2/footing.

Since using them, I’ve never mushroomed a carbon. I’m on about my fifth round of fletching some if these arrows. I’ve literally shot them into concrete walls with a blunt on them trying to tear them up. Aside from busting a nock, and breaking aluminum inserts on traditional glue on heads, I’ve never had an issue. I just heat everything back up, remove the insert with the broken shaft, install another one and shoot something with it. They make the carbon arrow nearly indestructible.

From: BOWNUT
18-Sep-22
If you have threader inserts take a look at the Gold Tip weight System. For a cheap easy fix you could add weed Wacker line inside from the nock down for extra weight. Put kinks in it with pliers to soften the impact of the stop of the arrow.

19-Sep-22

Corax_latrans's embedded Photo
Corax_latrans's embedded Photo
I cut my carbons 3/4” shorter than the need to be, then glue on about an inch and a half or so of aluminum with a standard (3/4”) RPS insert in one end. On a high-intensity impact, the aluminum shears off or splits, so I take it home and take a file to it. Once you’ve cut through the sidewall the thing will pop right off (LIGHT strokes toward the end!) and you can glue on a fresh one.

Just make sure you get the footing diameter dialed to “just barely big enough”.

You can also foot your arrows in the same way using a carbon- specific insert with Al over the insert (maybe length of the inserts + a little) ; I would expect that they’re tougher that way, but the way I do it provides a sacrificial point of failure, so I make my roving/stumping 3D arrows reparable and am just now working up a load with an aluminum sleeve outside and a carbon-arrow insert for 3 layers up there rather than only 2 at any point. Wouldn’t want a sacrificial point to fail on a hard bone hit if there’s an alternative…,

From: PECO2
19-Sep-22
If it were me, I'd just get some new 125gr broadheads and not mess around with removing inserts or adding collars.

From: x-man
19-Sep-22
Lots of people have put weed-eater line in the shafts for such a weight add.

From: Ken
19-Sep-22
Gold Tip FACT system is what I use.

From: 12yards
19-Sep-22

12yards's Link
Something like this.

From: badbull
19-Sep-22
I appreciate all of the information as I knew this was the place to go to get the best info available and also a subject that might be of interest to others. Thanks, Badbull

From: Bowfreak
19-Sep-22
You won't really notice the distance, but if you don't have GT arrows I'd just match the weight of my FP and BH. If you have GT arrows, use the FACT weights.

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