Sitka Gear
RJ hunt’s… let’s make a knife
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
RJ Hunt 13-Jan-23
fuzzy 13-Jan-23
LBshooter 13-Jan-23
Bowbender 13-Jan-23
LUNG$HOT 13-Jan-23
LUNG$HOT 13-Jan-23
Bowbender 13-Jan-23
BOWNBIRDHNTR 13-Jan-23
EmbryOklahoma 13-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 13-Jan-23
molsonarcher 13-Jan-23
drycreek 13-Jan-23
molsonarcher 13-Jan-23
Wv hillbilly 13-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 13-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 13-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 13-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 13-Jan-23
drycreek 13-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 13-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 14-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 14-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 14-Jan-23
Beendare 14-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 14-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 14-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 14-Jan-23
EmbryOklahoma 14-Jan-23
LUNG$HOT 14-Jan-23
[email protected] 14-Jan-23
[email protected] 14-Jan-23
Stoneman 14-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
Supernaut 15-Jan-23
bowhunter24 15-Jan-23
WV Mountaineer 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
drycreek 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
fastflight 15-Jan-23
molsonarcher 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
Supernaut 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
molsonarcher 15-Jan-23
Bou’bound 15-Jan-23
Supernaut 15-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
goelk 15-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 15-Jan-23
goelk 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
xtroutx 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 15-Jan-23
Catscratch 15-Jan-23
hawkeye in PA 15-Jan-23
BOWNBIRDHNTR 16-Jan-23
BOWNBIRDHNTR 16-Jan-23
BOWNBIRDHNTR 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
BOWNBIRDHNTR 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
drycreek 16-Jan-23
Whocares 16-Jan-23
hdaman 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
WV Mountaineer 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 16-Jan-23
MA-PAdeerslayer 16-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 16-Jan-23
BC173 16-Jan-23
Knifeman 16-Jan-23
deserthunter 16-Jan-23
Zbone 16-Jan-23
t-roy 17-Jan-23
ki-ke 17-Jan-23
xtroutx 17-Jan-23
Scoot 17-Jan-23
Bou’bound 17-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 17-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 17-Jan-23
JohnMC 17-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 17-Jan-23
Vonfoust 17-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 17-Jan-23
deerhunter72 17-Jan-23
Wv hillbilly 17-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 17-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 17-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 18-Jan-23
Bowbender 18-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 18-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 18-Jan-23
Knifeman 18-Jan-23
BC 18-Jan-23
WV Mountaineer 18-Jan-23
MA-PAdeerslayer 18-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 18-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 18-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 18-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 20-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 20-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 20-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 20-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 20-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 20-Jan-23
drycreek 20-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 21-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 21-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 21-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 21-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 21-Jan-23
Catscratch 21-Jan-23
fastflight 21-Jan-23
BC 21-Jan-23
Goelk 21-Jan-23
drycreek 21-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
LBshooter 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
hdaman 22-Jan-23
xtroutx 22-Jan-23
BC 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
JohnMC 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
JohnMC 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
xtroutx 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
Ambush 22-Jan-23
Poppy 22-Jan-23
Zbone 22-Jan-23
Catscratch 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
Zbone 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
Zbone 22-Jan-23
Marty 22-Jan-23
fastflight 22-Jan-23
butcherboy 22-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 22-Jan-23
LBshooter 23-Jan-23
wv_bowhunter 23-Jan-23
hawkeye in PA 23-Jan-23
goyt 23-Jan-23
Deerdawg 23-Jan-23
fdp 23-Jan-23
GhostBird 23-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 23-Jan-23
BOWNBIRDHNTR 23-Jan-23
BOWNBIRDHNTR 23-Jan-23
Treeline 23-Jan-23
TMac 23-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 23-Jan-23
TMac 23-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 23-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 23-Jan-23
LUNG$HOT 23-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 23-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 23-Jan-23
RK 23-Jan-23
Grey Ghost 23-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 23-Jan-23
Knifeman 23-Jan-23
Knifeman 23-Jan-23
hdaman 23-Jan-23
deerhunter72 23-Jan-23
drycreek 23-Jan-23
GhostBird 23-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 23-Jan-23
DroptineDC18 23-Jan-23
t-roy 23-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 23-Jan-23
Pyrannah 23-Jan-23
Dale06 23-Jan-23
Catscratch 23-Jan-23
Ambush 23-Jan-23
JB 23-Jan-23
molsonarcher 24-Jan-23
molsonarcher 24-Jan-23
molsonarcher 24-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 24-Jan-23
fastflight 24-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 24-Jan-23
wild1 25-Jan-23
Iowabowhunter 26-Jan-23
[email protected] 26-Jan-23
Old Bow 26-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 26-Jan-23
Beendare 27-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 27-Jan-23
Helgermite 27-Jan-23
RJ Hunt 27-Jan-23
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Ok guys. I am going to make this knife on this thread and post up the process in which I do so from design… to blade steel selection…. To finished product. Here is the knife in its “wood” pattern I drew up this am and will make into a blade capable of breaking down and debone an elk sized animal.

From: fuzzy
13-Jan-23
Nice! I need to call you about getting on the build/waiting list

From: LBshooter
13-Jan-23
A beauty!!!

From: Bowbender
13-Jan-23
Yes!!! Been waiting for this. Y'all need to get an Instagram account and see Rob's work. In-freaking-credible!

13-Jan-23
I’ve got a Niche knife that cut up and caped an elk last September And did not need sharpening. So I butchered a whitetail. Still didn’t really need sharpening. But I touched it up any way.

The edge retention was phenomenal

From: LUNG$HOT
13-Jan-23
I’ll be following along on this one. Awesome stuff.

From: LUNG$HOT
13-Jan-23
What is his instagram name?

From: Bowbender
13-Jan-23
@robmniche

From: BOWNBIRDHNTR
13-Jan-23
This will be a cool thread. Rob is a great guy and his knives are fantastic!

13-Jan-23
Yep, phenomenal knives made by Rob. I’m very critical of knives and the angle from the handle to the blade, and look. Rob HAS it down in all aspects.

From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-23
Thanks guys. Appreciate all the support. I will try to make the thread flow though the process and try to update daily as I go.

From: molsonarcher
13-Jan-23
Bring it on RJ!

Been waiting for this.

Just dont forget about my order while doing this build;)

From: drycreek
13-Jan-23
I already like the design, looking forward to the build. I have to keep a tight rein on myself to keep from having knives I don’t use.

(Who am I kidding ?)

From: molsonarcher
13-Jan-23
Drycreek, I have one of RJs knives, and 2 on the way.

Its not about “needing” another one ; )

13-Jan-23
Can’t wait Rob! Best knives I’ve ever owned.

From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-23
Thanks guys. Appreciate all the support. I will try to make the thread flow though the process and try to update daily as I go.

From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
This knife will be a one off and I will need to profile by hand on the grinder and band saw. We will be using Elmax Superclean steel on this as it has superb edge retention and takes a very nice edge. This is a stainless particle steel and though a bit difficult to work it makes for a great knife

From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo

From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-23
Also keep in mind all this work so far Is being done prior to hardening the blade… that will come later on in the process.

From: drycreek
13-Jan-23
I have a feeling this is gonna cost somebody………

From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
After getting the profile done and cleaned up I have to remove the stainless steel can (a thin dark gray metal on the outside of the steel billet) as it will not harden in the heat treat and is best to get off now. I do this on a surface grinding attachment.

From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now that the knife blank is flat on both surfaces and square along the spine I add some jimping (cuts in the spine to add some grip for your index finger) and a sharpening choil (all my hunting knives get one with the exception of my capers). I do all file work with chainsaw files and by eye, over time you get a feel for it. The blue on the base is layout fluid. It allows me to see my marks a bit better. Also later on I will add Cerakote to the file work to add color and character to the blade.

From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now to drill pin holes for the handle in the tang of the knife as this needs to be done before heat treat (hardening) as it is easier now as the steel is soft. I don’t drill additional weight reduction holes as we will address weight reduction later after heat treat.

From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
In addition a drill a lanyard tube hole and chamfer all the holes

From: Beendare
14-Jan-23
Nice sander setup RJ.

Elmax is good stuff…. i’m looking forward to see how you heat treat it

Guys that try drilling stainless for the first time get an attitude adjustment….Until you figure out that low speed is the key.

From: Grey Ghost
14-Jan-23
This is awesome stuff. Thanks for sharing your expertise, Robert.

And, yeah, that sander is badazz.

Matt

From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
My knife grinders
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
My knife grinders
Thanks Beendare…. Yeah stainless is an animal to work even before heat treat. Slow speed is key… I run my drill press as slow as will go and apply cutting oil as well. Grey Ghost… thank you. I have two different ones. One is a home made unit and the other I had made for me by a local shop. Both run 2x72 belts and are controlled by VFD drives.

From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I used a height scribe to mark the center line of the blade
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I used a height scribe to mark the center line of the blade
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now we are on to the “pre heat treat” grinds. I cut a small false edge on the top of the blade (for looks more than anything) and take the corner off the main bevel only to the 45 degree. I leave a lot of flats on the knife as during heat treat I will be cooling this blade between two water cooled aluminum plates. Most you have probably seen the knives quenched in oil, while I do that as well, Elmax goes into 35 degree aluminum plates to cool. And also the knife then gets an acetone bath to remove any dykem and oil before heat treat

14-Jan-23
“Guys that try drilling stainless for the first time get an attitude adjustment….Until you figure out that low speed is the key.” Truth! Like Rob said as well, low speeds and apply some cutting OIL. ;)

From: LUNG$HOT
14-Jan-23
Looking good RJ. Your stuff on instagram is beautiful!

14-Jan-23
Thanks for sharing the process. A medium size drop point with jimping is my favorite.

14-Jan-23
Love seeing an artist at work.

From: Stoneman
14-Jan-23
It always amazes me the vast amount of skilled craftsmen on Bowsite, plus the sharing of their art in threads like this.

So much knowledge and experience. Very humbling…

Beautiful work RJ

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23
Thanks for all the positive feedback. Is fun to share and show others what I do and how I do it.

From: Supernaut
15-Jan-23
Thanks for the build along RJ!

Your knives are beauties and I'll be following this thread and can't wait to see the finished product.

From: bowhunter24
15-Jan-23
I am feeling the urge RJ, I retired last year from 34 years of being a machinist, you know what you are doing and who doesn't like a great knife? This is going to cost me!

15-Jan-23
Nice!!!

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Sealed tight in the foil packet
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Sealed tight in the foil packet
Time to make this knife… a knife. We need to harden this to about 62 Rockwell to perform where we want it to. Many factory knives run 57-59hrc but in my opinion you are not getting the performance you should get out of these high end blade steels. To get to that hardness we will need to cook this knife at an exact temperature for a specific time… some cook for 15 min and some for 45 min. I use a computer controlled oven to hold exact temps for that timeframe. This one will soak at over 2000f then quench in cold aluminum plates then get placed into liquid nitrogen overnight at -320f. Also to protect the carbon in the steel from being cooked out we need to protect it from the environment. I wrap the knife in stainless steel (309 type) foil as just like welding we need to protect the metals from the environment (oxygen) when that hot.

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
My oven. It cooks up to 2300f
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
My oven. It cooks up to 2300f
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Placing the knife in cold plates of aluminum. Will be cool to touch in 20-30 seconds
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Placing the knife in cold plates of aluminum. Will be cool to touch in 20-30 seconds
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Going into liquid nitrogen within 2-3 min of coming out of the oven
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Going into liquid nitrogen within 2-3 min of coming out of the oven
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Almost forgot. The knife stays in the foil when going into the plates to cool. When cool to touch I cut out of the foil
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Almost forgot. The knife stays in the foil when going into the plates to cool. When cool to touch I cut out of the foil

From: drycreek
15-Jan-23
Amazing !

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23
Thanks drycreek. I appreciate all the compliments and if you guys have any questions hit me up. I will do my best to answer them all as I go.

From: fastflight
15-Jan-23
This is one of the best threads in a while. So cool to see a process I knew nothing about.

From: molsonarcher
15-Jan-23
Thats neat how it “glows” theough the foil. I woulda thought at those temps they would stick together.

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23
Molon…. Yes they do stick together… they actually forge weld together at these temps but there is a little secret I did not show. ;-) A little baby powder on the blade keeps things from welding while in the oven.

From: Supernaut
15-Jan-23
I can't imagine the amount of trial and error that goes into acquiring the knowledge to make those knives.

RJ, we're you mentored by anyone or was it mostly trial and error or a combination of both?

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23
Supernaut I was not mentored by anyone other than YouTube. Lol What I did do was I read everything I could find on forums, in written articles and such. Another thing I did that really helped me was I came to learn who in the business was very good at what they did (some guys were masters at heat treat, some were high carbon steel specialists and what not) and wrote them once every 6 months or so a simple question asking for advice. It was not often I asked as I did not want to pester and felt if I did as much as I could to learn on my own the “old G’s” I should call them, would help me with tid bits of needed information I needed to continue growing.

From: molsonarcher
15-Jan-23
Rj, thats a nice trick. I woulda been back at the grinder trying to get back to where i started. Lotsa knowledge in this post for sure.

From: Bou’bound
15-Jan-23
This is phenomenal

From: Supernaut
15-Jan-23
Thanks for the info on your learning process RJ and kudos to you for learning how to craft beautiful knives!

Thanks again for the build along.

From: Grey Ghost
15-Jan-23
Robert, what caused the bit of discoloration at the front tip during heat treating? And how will you address that for the finished product?

Matt

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23
GG. That is from a split second the foil let some air (oxygen) in as the blade was cooling in the foil packet when clamped between the plates. When the blade cools is can shrink up and tighten the foil like a shrink wrap and the corners of the knife can make a small hole. That said that much is not an issue and will all be ground off when we taper in the tip of the blade on the grinder. That shows what that knife would look like if we did not wrap in foil as would be a burned up mess of left to cook exposed for 30 min being that happened in just a split second.

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Here is the knife out of cryo treat at a -320f warming back up to room temp. The knife is now at full hardness and we will need to temper that back so will go back into an oven around 400f for about 4 hours to draw some brittleness out and become more durable.

From: Grey Ghost
15-Jan-23
Thanks, that makes sense, and I'm glad it's easily corrected later on.

I'm curious, when you were tapping into the knowledge of experts, did you ever communicate with Phil Wilson in California?

Matt

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23
I did not communicate with Phil Wilson in CA. Though I have read his website and seen a few of his knives I did not get to know of him til this last year.

From: goelk
15-Jan-23
wow that really cool enjoying watching

From: Grey Ghost
15-Jan-23
Phil is a great guy. At the time I ordered a custom set of knives from him, he was about the only knife maker who would use CPM 10V if requested. He treated mine to HRC 62, IIRC. They are a bit brittle and hard to sharpen, but they hold an edge incredibly well.

I'll stop bugging you, now. I'm really enjoying this thread.

Matt

From: goelk
15-Jan-23
wow really cool to watch and looking to forward to the finish.

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23
Not bugging GG. I enjoy this kinda stuff.

From: xtroutx
15-Jan-23
Great to watch a skilled craftsman at work. Great thread. Thank you.

15-Jan-23

Altitude Sickness 's embedded Photo
Altitude Sickness 's embedded Photo
Here’s the specs on my knife Robert made. The retention is amazing. But probably not a good prying tool. Or splitting wood.

But for skinning and caping a dirt encrusted bull it’s the cat’s pajamas

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23
Thanks altitude! Glad that knife worked well for you. To be honest that’s why I started making knives. It just seemed that everytime I had a bull to take apart or a buck my knife always left me wanting something better. After my wife telling me “stop complaining about your knives and go make your own!” I began this endeavor. Anyhow. I do what I love to do and really like making tools that can make a grueling job all the easier.

From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Ok. Got the knife out of temper this afternoon and my goal was to harden the blade to 62.0hrc. I Rockwell test each knife and this one came out at 62.2hrc. That’s a good spot for a hunter in Elmax.

From: Catscratch
15-Jan-23
Loving this thread! Hate to even guess how much $$$$ you have tied up in tools and equipment. Great work!

15-Jan-23
Enjoying the thread also. Your making it look easy! Nice equipment.

From: BOWNBIRDHNTR
16-Jan-23

BOWNBIRDHNTR's embedded Photo
BOWNBIRDHNTR's embedded Photo
I can certainly vouch for Rob and his knives!!

From: BOWNBIRDHNTR
16-Jan-23

BOWNBIRDHNTR's embedded Photo
BOWNBIRDHNTR's embedded Photo

From: BOWNBIRDHNTR
16-Jan-23

BOWNBIRDHNTR's embedded Photo
BOWNBIRDHNTR's embedded Photo

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23
Thanks bowandbird I appreciate it.

From: BOWNBIRDHNTR
16-Jan-23
I caped and broke down both the Coues and the Iowa buck above along with my son's Sitka blacktail all without resharpening either knife. I'm hoping to add a caper to my collection very soon!

Not only are the knives incredibly durable but Rob can customize the scales with just about anything you can imagine. I had him make 3 knives with thin blue inserts between the tang and the scales and gave one to my son and son in law who are both Deputy Sheriffs....and they really like sharp things!

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now that we have a knife blank heat treated and ready to go it’s time to pick out handle materials and construction. This one will be half black micarta and stabilized buckeye Burl with some gray/black accents. First I make a block suitable to for the knife by laminating with structural grade epoxy (no 5 min epoxy used only commercial grade marine epoxy).

From: Grey Ghost
16-Jan-23
Robert, what is the small notch for at the rear end of the edge?

Matt

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23
GG… that is a sharpening choil. I put them on my knives with the exception of my capers. It allows you to sharpen without running your stone into the plunge. Some like them… some do not.

From: Grey Ghost
16-Jan-23
I thought I was pretty savvy about knife terminology and features, but I'd never heard of a "sharpening choil". Thanks for teaching me something new. I'm actually learning a lot from this thread.

Matt

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Here is a knife with no choil

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
While the epoxy is setting up I will start with grinding the bevels on the knife. Now being the knife has been heat treated and grinding creates heat I must avoid heating the knife blade and or edge beyond 400degrees f or I could ruin the knife. To help with heat control I run sharp ceramic belts, a water cooled platen (you can see the hoses that pump cold water though) and a water sprayer. Yes it makes a mess but is good insurance that when I am done the knife is in the same state as when I heat treated it.

From: drycreek
16-Jan-23
This is a great thread !

From: Whocares
16-Jan-23
Certainly is a great and interesting thread. Thanks RJ. Will go take out my various knives now in the middle of winter and look at them with a new appreciation.

From: hdaman
16-Jan-23
Very talented for sure! How many 'hands on' hours do you have invested at this point?

16-Jan-23

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23
Hdaman, I’m not sure how many hours I have involved but I am on year four of making knives and year two of doing full time for my only income.

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23
The bevels are now ground ground and we will address the issue of the tang (metal part of the knife where the handle is) weight next. I will hollow grind out the handle then taper the tang of the knife just like grinding bevels. This will make the thickness of the knife about .150 at the handle junction and close to 0.020” at the butt.

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
That tang taper at the back of the knife
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
That tang taper at the back of the knife
Now that the tang is hollowed and tapered I will need to spray the Cerakote accents and begin all the hand work

16-Jan-23
Beautiful work man.

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23
WV, Thank you

From: Grey Ghost
16-Jan-23
Robert, what tool is used to hollow the tang?

Matt

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Matt, I hollow grind them out on a 4” wheel attachment

From: Grey Ghost
16-Jan-23
Thanks. It blows my mind how much of the grinding, shaping, hollowing etc...is done without the aid of jigs. I finally got good at free-handing sharpening a knife on a stone. I can't image the talent required to actually make an entire blade by feel and eyeball. It's truly an art form.

Matt

16-Jan-23
Amazing RJ. How would one go about to get one of these?? Website? Etc.

From: RJ Hunt
16-Jan-23
GG…. That’s funny you say that. I have to sharpen with a jig.

From: BC173
16-Jan-23
You guys with this kinda talent amaze me. Good stuff RJ!

From: Knifeman
16-Jan-23

From: deserthunter
16-Jan-23
You sir are a craftsman. I have learned a bunch from this post.

From: Zbone
16-Jan-23
Cool stuff, thanks for sharing...

From: t-roy
17-Jan-23
Extremely informative thread, RJ! Love these “how-it’s-made” threads.

From start to finish (not including the time in the oven for heating/tempering, and in the nitrogen bath) approximately how much time, on average, will you have in the making of this knife, or one similar?

From: ki-ke
17-Jan-23
Incredibly fascinating. Thanks for taking us along on this build! I know there’s a couple machinists that have already chimed in that are researching equipment for their “retirement” shops….lol

I may “need” a new knife soon..

17-Jan-23
I now feel better for what I paid for my Niche knife. I was 100% satisfied before this post. And never second guessed the price Now I see why the price is what it is.

From: xtroutx
17-Jan-23
Excellent Thread. Love the craftmanship. Thanks RJ, will be following to the end.

From: Scoot
17-Jan-23
What a great, informative, interesting thread! Thanks RJ!

From: Bou’bound
17-Jan-23
this thread is so interesting for those of us who had no idea of the technicalities of the workmanship. The specialized equipment you use is awesome.

From: RJ Hunt
17-Jan-23
Thank you guys. T-roy, it takes me about 10-15 hours depending on the knife and if I need to make any corrections as I go. To make one knife at a time is not feasible as if I did one it could take me 30 hours to complete so to keep efficient, I make a minimum of four at a time and often 10. That brings my “per knife” time down to a point I can be profitable. So behind the scenes with this knife I have three others I am working on at the same time as this one.

From: RJ Hunt
17-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
You may remember I laminated some g10 accents onto the buckeye Burl block
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
You may remember I laminated some g10 accents onto the buckeye Burl block
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I then split them on the bandsaw and flatten them on a disc grinder
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I then split them on the bandsaw and flatten them on a disc grinder
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
And then glue the pieces onto g10 liners to hold them all together with a 24 hour structural epoxy
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
And then glue the pieces onto g10 liners to hold them all together with a 24 hour structural epoxy
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Tomorrow after the epoxy sets we will then flatten the outside and fit to the knife
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Tomorrow after the epoxy sets we will then flatten the outside and fit to the knife
Handle construction and layout

From: JohnMC
17-Jan-23
Enjoying following along. I do have a question a lot of grinding after the heat treat. Namely the bevels and hollowing the tang. Why is that done after heat treat instead of before when steel is softer?

From: RJ Hunt
17-Jan-23
John, I feel I get a more consistent heat treat when the steel is flat and I can clamp it tight in the clamps to cool. That is stainless steels only. On oil quenching steels (like 52100, W2 or 1095 I will grind 90% of the way to ensure full hardening. Also grinding after heat treat is not that difficult if you use quality abrasives. Also keep in mind there are many great knife makers that do things different than me and I have found doing these methods work for me and allows me consistency in my production.

From: Vonfoust
17-Jan-23
This is fantastic. Thanks for letting us follow along.

From: RJ Hunt
17-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now that we are ready for the hand work I will blast the file work in the blasting cabinet to allow the Cerakote to stick. This step (applying Cerakote) is not needed but I feel it adds a level of detail. I will be applying Black Cerakote on this knife spine

From: deerhunter72
17-Jan-23
So thankful that you are sharing such great information! You are a true artist and I definitely want to add one of your knives to my collection in the future. Congratulations on being able to make a living doing what you love!

17-Jan-23
Rob, looks like pope and young is having a knife making contest at the convention this year. Have you seen anything about this? If so are you gonna enter one of your knives? Really enjoying this thread!

From: RJ Hunt
17-Jan-23
Probably not WV. I didn’t even know they had one, that’s pretty cool bet there will be some sweet knives there though.

From: RJ Hunt
17-Jan-23
Well Dave, I just looked it up and is in Reno, NV. Think that would be a good trip as is only 500 miles from my house and looks like the route goes right through some awesome coyote calling country. I think I should have planned ahead a bit and made a trip… or should I say… hunting trip out of it. ;-)

From: RJ Hunt
18-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
This is my sanding block
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
This is my sanding block
Now all the machine work is done is time to hand sand the knife blade to a nice satin finish. Now being this steel is hardened and very wear resistant, it can take hours to work your way though the grits and get a nice lengthwise finish on the blade.

From: Bowbender
18-Jan-23
Loving this, Rob.

From: Grey Ghost
18-Jan-23
Robert, why do you do the cerakote detail on the spine before you do the finish sanding? And does that detail only remain on the top edge of the spine after hand sanding?

Matt

From: RJ Hunt
18-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Thanks bowbender. Here is an action shot. I use silicon carbide sandpaper with windex (yes window cleaner as the ammonia will not promote corrosion while sanding) to wet sand.

From: Knifeman
18-Jan-23

From: BC
18-Jan-23
Great thread. Thats' amazing work RJ. Thanks for showing us the process.

18-Jan-23
I’m loving it.

18-Jan-23
Loving this RJ

From: RJ Hunt
18-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Matt, I apply the Cerakote before sanding so I can remove it when I work on the satin of the blade. I sand carefully not to remove the Cerakote from the file work. Here you can see the Cerakote accents on the spine of the knife after I sand the flats and spine. I also do these In various colors to match the handle scheme.

From: Grey Ghost
18-Jan-23
Thanks Robert. That Cerakote detail in the file work is a great idea. It definitely adds to the appearance, and it seems to be a simple step.

Matt

From: RJ Hunt
18-Jan-23
Matt,

It is a simple step but time consuming. Cerakote takes a process of soaking/degreasing, blasting, baking, spraying then baking again to properly apply. That said in the end I feel is well worth the added detail.

From: RJ Hunt
20-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Scales after resin setting up
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Scales after resin setting up
Ok. Sorry for being absent a couple days… I had some things I needed to get some for the week. Back to where we left off. ……Now the knife scales (handles) are set up it is time to square them off, true them up and the spot glue back together to fit to the knife.

From: RJ Hunt
20-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Flattened and squared up
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Flattened and squared up

From: RJ Hunt
20-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Glued together and sprayed with some water so can see the colors.
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Glued together and sprayed with some water so can see the colors.

From: RJ Hunt
20-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Drilling the pin/ lanyard holes
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Drilling the pin/ lanyard holes
I draw out the knife scales onto the knife so I can center the spilts

From: RJ Hunt
20-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I then transfer the knife tang outline into the scales and rough shape them to fit leaving them oversized by about 0.030 as we will grind them to fit after glue up with the exception of the fronts as those get finish sanded now

From: RJ Hunt
20-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now the handles are roughed out ready to fit to the knife

From: drycreek
20-Jan-23
Keep it up ! Very interthread.

From: RJ Hunt
21-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Sanding the front of the knife handles to a clean finish before glue up

From: RJ Hunt
21-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now the handle scales have been roughed out and fit to the knife to make sure all surfaces are mating well I will now finish sand the blade. Here is our current progress so far:

From: RJ Hunt
21-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
After I get the blade hand sanded to a nice satin finish I have to add my makers mark and the serial number. I do that by electro etch and stencils I have made. This is knife number 0437. That is the four hundred and thirty seventh knife I have made to date.

From: RJ Hunt
21-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Ready for glue up. I attach the handles and pins with gflex marine grade 24 hour set epoxy. Is an extremely strong, flexible and long lasting product
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Ready for glue up. I attach the handles and pins with gflex marine grade 24 hour set epoxy. Is an extremely strong, flexible and long lasting product
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I weigh my epoxy on a scale for exact ratios and I add a black pigment to match the knife scale pins and liners
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I weigh my epoxy on a scale for exact ratios and I add a black pigment to match the knife scale pins and liners
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Adding spring clamps
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Adding spring clamps
After adding my makers mark and my serial number the knife tang needs to be prepped for glue up. An important step is to degrease and blast the surface with aluminum oxide to give a surface the epoxy can bond to. I mask off all the areas I want to protect and place back into the blast cabinet

From: RJ Hunt
21-Jan-23
I hope this is making sense to everyone. Any questions or things you may want explained? Thanks guys.

From: Catscratch
21-Jan-23
It makes sense!!! Outstanding thread!

From: fastflight
21-Jan-23
Still following along for sure. Have you shared pics of your other 437 knives on bowsite? Need to find that thread if they are out there. Thanks for smearing the process. What the tool look like that you etch the numbers with?

From: BC
21-Jan-23
Gotta love that shamrock too. Great thread, work of art.

From: Goelk
21-Jan-23
So Cool so interesting

From: drycreek
21-Jan-23
Ok, I’m gonna ask THE QUESTION ;-) How much is this knife gonna sell for ?

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23
I have shared a few of my knives but not many.

From: LBshooter
22-Jan-23
Very nice, looks like A nice hunting knife.

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23
Drycreek. DM sent and it has already been claimed.

From: hdaman
22-Jan-23
I appreciate you taking the time to share what goes into creating a knife like this! I find threads like this incredibly interesting.

From: xtroutx
22-Jan-23
I look forward to seeing the process daily. Thanks for doing this thread.

22-Jan-23
Robert, why large diameter pins. Instead of the traditional small ones

From: BC
22-Jan-23

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23
Altitude, I do all sizes of pins from 1/8” up to the 3/8”. On some knives I use the 3/8” pins for a look I am after. That said is a personal preference. I can use any size requested within reason. I also can use metal pins like brass, stainless steel and even mosaics. Thanks Jay

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Ok. The gflex resin has now set up and is time to finish and shape the handle.

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Here you can see the taper in the tang
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Here you can see the taper in the tang
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Grinding the taper to the front of the handle
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Grinding the taper to the front of the handle
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I shape my handles by hand after I square and flatten back up to the blade. I feel if I start with something uniform it ends up finishing up much better and easier to see fewer angles at once

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now to cut the hourglass shape. I use various sized grinding wheels… this is an 8”
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now to cut the hourglass shape. I use various sized grinding wheels… this is an 8”
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Though I do them by eye I check for symmetry as I go with calipers just in case.
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Though I do them by eye I check for symmetry as I go with calipers just in case.
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now they are roughed in I will clean them up and shape to match with a fine belt belt
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now they are roughed in I will clean them up and shape to match with a fine belt belt

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Rounding all the edges off with a 4” wheel
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Rounding all the edges off with a 4” wheel

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
The edges are all rounded and the shape is ready to be sanded by hand to finish.

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I place the knife in a home made “knife” vise and sand away
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I place the knife in a home made “knife” vise and sand away

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
The blade is done and the handle is now shaped and sanded. Now final steps are the sheath and sharpen. I make kydex sheathes that come with the knife and if leather is requested I have a buddy in Ohio that is a master at the leather craft I recommend. The sheath making will be next

From: JohnMC
22-Jan-23
You still have knife number one? If so lets see where you started. Good looking knife!

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23
I gave knife number one to a buddy of mine after I finished it but let me see if I can drag out a picture of it.

From: Grey Ghost
22-Jan-23
It’s amazing how much the grain in the burl “pops” with the fine sanding. Beautiful!!

Matt

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Here is my very first knife I finished that actually worked. Is O1 tool steel I heat treated with a little forge and a can of canola oil

From: JohnMC
22-Jan-23
Thanks for sharing that. You have come a ways, still lot better than most of could do it we tried.

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
For you guys that pack in here is a 4” blade with a 8.5” overall with the capability to break down an entire elk and weighs in at 4.3oz
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
For you guys that pack in here is a 4” blade with a 8.5” overall with the capability to break down an entire elk and weighs in at 4.3oz

From: xtroutx
22-Jan-23
You sir, are a true craftsman. Beautiful knife. Thanks for the take along. knife

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23
Thanks for all the kind words gents

From: Ambush
22-Jan-23
I am truly amazed at your skill, that knife and the WEIGHT! 4.3 oz's!

Was this knife sold before you made it or did it sell it's self during this thread?

From: Poppy
22-Jan-23
Simply amazing and just beautiful, truly a piece of working art !

From: Zbone
22-Jan-23
Absolutely gorgeous... Thanks for sharing...

Did I read that wood is ebony?

From: Catscratch
22-Jan-23
Pics of the other knives you made during this thread? Please...

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
One of the other knives I made during this post.
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
One of the other knives I made during this post.
Ambush, Thank you. That knife was claimed as I was making it on the thread. Zbone, the wood portion in the handle is stabilized buckeye Burl. Cat scratch… I don’t have pics of all the knives I made during this thread but I have a couple.

From: Zbone
22-Jan-23
Wow, that's another beauty, I like the brown kevlar sheath too... Did you also form the sheath? Thanks again...

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23
Zbone… yes sir I make the sheaths and belt loops. I will detail that process next.

From: Zbone
22-Jan-23
Way cool sir, thank you...

From: Marty
22-Jan-23
Crazy good looking knives! Fun to see the amount of work and skill that goes into your build. Thanks for sharing! Kevin

From: fastflight
22-Jan-23
So incredibly talented. Both knives are beautiful. Please share few more pics if you can find the pictures of others you have built.

From: butcherboy
22-Jan-23
Very nice! I would love to carry one of those as an EDC. Can you make the kydex sheath to carry vertical and horizontal?

From: RJ Hunt
22-Jan-23
I can make sheaths with vertical or horizontal carry.

From: LBshooter
23-Jan-23
Love the knife, but I think I would have left the colors off the handle , distracts from the beauty of the knife.

From: wv_bowhunter
23-Jan-23
This has been awesome to follow! While sanding, the handle was very dull in color. Was the color there and the sanding dust just needed washed off and polished to bring the colors back to life?

23-Jan-23
Beautiful knife and your very talented. I've made one forged knife through a hands on class and know/appreciate the work involved, you make it look easy!

From: goyt
23-Jan-23
Thank you for a wonderful thread. Beautiful knives!

From: Deerdawg
23-Jan-23
Fine craftsmanship is appreciated! I bet it cuts as good as it looks! Nice work.

From: fdp
23-Jan-23
Absolutely outstanding. Great thread/post and much appreciated.

From: GhostBird
23-Jan-23
Excellent craftsmanship. Beautiful knife... you sir, are an artist.

From: RJ Hunt
23-Jan-23
Thanks guys. Lbshooter, the knife I made along side the bowsite knife had colored stripes in the handle as they are company logo colors and this one was ordered as a gift to one of his employees… hence the bright colors. WV… the handle was “dull” looking during the process as needed to be sanded smooth by hand and buffed with a towel to bring out the luster. . Today I will post the process to make the sheath. Happy Monday.

From: BOWNBIRDHNTR
23-Jan-23
As the name implies, Niche Custom Blade Works, everything Rob makes is CUSTOM. Whether you want a monotone handle or a color scheme to match the fletching on your arrows, Rob can do it. Half the fun is just visiting with him about your ideas and then seeing what he comes up with.

From: BOWNBIRDHNTR
23-Jan-23

BOWNBIRDHNTR's embedded Photo
BOWNBIRDHNTR's embedded Photo
Rob helped me design these three. I wanted them to essentially the same knife but each with a different handle color. All three also have thin blue line inserts between the scales and the tang. I gave one to my son and one to my son in law. Both are in law enforcement.

From: Treeline
23-Jan-23
Amazing work! You definitely have a passion and have developed a great set of skills! Awesome thread! Thank you!

From: TMac
23-Jan-23
As a knife junky I had given thought years ago to make my own knives but am not very handy in general. What is your background for work? Have you always been a craftsman?

From: RJ Hunt
23-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Ok… sheath time. Here are the materials.
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Ok… sheath time. Here are the materials.
Tmac, thank you. I have always been “handy” and my grandfather and great grandfather were skilled wood workers. I myself could never get into the wood working as much but I really was drawn to metal fabrication when was a kid. I have always worked with my hands and such but never really took on a challenge like this before a few years ago as I wanted something better in my pack when I had work to do in the field.

From: TMac
23-Jan-23
Well there goes my dream lol….. You do beautiful work!

From: RJ Hunt
23-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I tape up the knife to prep to mold the sheath
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I tape up the knife to prep to mold the sheath
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I heat the kydex and put in a press with the knife as a form
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I heat the kydex and put in a press with the knife as a form
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
As that is cooling I make the belt loop
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
As that is cooling I make the belt loop
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I then drill and install the rivets with a press
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I then drill and install the rivets with a press

From: RJ Hunt
23-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
And shape on the grinder.
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
And shape on the grinder.
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
When is shaped and the edges are buffed it time to bolt on the belt loop at test fit
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
When is shaped and the edges are buffed it time to bolt on the belt loop at test fit
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo

From: LUNG$HOT
23-Jan-23
Bravo RJ. Beautiful knives. Thanks for sharing the process.

From: RJ Hunt
23-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now to sharpen. I start with coarse diamond stones and work my way to about an 800 grit in a gatco I have modified to do what I want.
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
Now to sharpen. I start with coarse diamond stones and work my way to about an 800 grit in a gatco I have modified to do what I want.
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I then strop off the burr and make sure the edge is clean
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
I then strop off the burr and make sure the edge is clean
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
A check for me is to try to cut phone book paper from the side to make sure there is a keen edge that will grab a surface like phonebook paper. I also have a bald left arm for some reason. ;-)
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
A check for me is to try to cut phone book paper from the side to make sure there is a keen edge that will grab a surface like phonebook paper. I also have a bald left arm for some reason. ;-)

From: RJ Hunt
23-Jan-23

RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
RJ Hunt's embedded Photo
We now have a knife ready for a hunt. I thank all you guys for following along and a thank you to bowsite for giving me the platform to do share what I do.

From: RK
23-Jan-23
VERY nice work Somebody is going to be very pleased with that

From: Grey Ghost
23-Jan-23
Robert, do you do a straight V-edge? And is that 22 degrees that I'm seeing on your jig?

Matt

From: RJ Hunt
23-Jan-23
Grey Ghost. Yes and I have bent the rods so is right at 20dps. And thank you RK

From: Knifeman
23-Jan-23

From: Knifeman
23-Jan-23

From: hdaman
23-Jan-23
Thanks again for sharing your talent with us!

From: deerhunter72
23-Jan-23
That knife is a thing of beauty and will no doubt be a great workhorse in the field. Thanks again for taking us through your process!

From: drycreek
23-Jan-23
RJ, this was a great thread, I enjoyed it immensely ! You do great work and I appreciate you sharing it with us. I really like the scales on the “other” knife you were making at the same time.

From: GhostBird
23-Jan-23
BRAVO... beautiful work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

From: RJ Hunt
23-Jan-23
Thanks brothers. Appreciate it. Also let me know if you have any questions. I will keep up on the thread and answer any you may have. Thank you

From: DroptineDC18
23-Jan-23
Incredible craftsmanship! I am jealous of your skills. Thanks for documenting from start to finish.

From: t-roy
23-Jan-23
Extremely fun following along on this thread, RJ! Always interesting to see how the sausage is made, so to speak. I have a question about how you get the fit right on the sheath. Do you have to put a specific amount of tape/etc. on the knife and handle so the fit is snug, but not too tight?

From: RJ Hunt
23-Jan-23
T-roy eyes there is I apply three layers of tape to the blade on each side for clearance but not on the handle. I have a wooden spacer on the handle for the finger choil.

From: Pyrannah
23-Jan-23
how do people get these knives?

From: Dale06
23-Jan-23
That’s both, a beautiful piece of art and a very useful tool.

From: Catscratch
23-Jan-23
Time for a second thread! What will you be building us next?

From: Ambush
23-Jan-23
I'm not sure if you're into trading, but I've got a left nu . . . . . aah never mind : (

From: JB
23-Jan-23
WOW! Very cool!! You have amazing talent!!

From: molsonarcher
24-Jan-23

molsonarcher's embedded Photo
molsonarcher's embedded Photo

From: molsonarcher
24-Jan-23

molsonarcher's embedded Photo
molsonarcher's embedded Photo

From: molsonarcher
24-Jan-23
Since Rob is too modest to post, I will.

He made these for me while doing the knife build for Bowsite.

The first one is made to match one he already made for me.

The second is for my wifes birthday. She said she needed a new “apple slicer” for her purse, so now she will have one.

Anyone wanting or “not needing” another item such as this just needs to get creative on how to describe said item;)

From: RJ Hunt
24-Jan-23
Thanks Matt. I appreciate that.

From: fastflight
24-Jan-23
All of the knives on this thread and your Instagram page are amazing. Thanks for sharing the process and your craftsmanship. I see one of Matt's has a darker blade. Is it a different steel or heat treated differently? Care to share the pros and cons of both those materials?

From: RJ Hunt
24-Jan-23
Fast flight, Matt’s has a darker look as that one is Cerakoted in mil green. Wild1, that knife is Elmax hardened to 62.2 hrc. Most my knives are done in that steel and in 20cv as well

From: wild1
25-Jan-23
Thank you!

26-Jan-23
Just amazing!

Thank you for taking us through the process!

26-Jan-23
Rob, well that was indeed a special treat watching the process and the talent that goes into making a useful and beautiful knife. Nicely done. My best, Paul

From: Old Bow
26-Jan-23
Super looking knives !

From: RJ Hunt
26-Jan-23
Thanks guys. Was fun to put together.

From: Beendare
27-Jan-23
RJ, ???????? incredible work

Q, where do you purchase your drill bits?

From: RJ Hunt
27-Jan-23
Beendare, thank you. On the bits When I lived in a metro area I would purchase them from a local supply house. Now I have moved rural I have been forced to order in and mostly go though McMaster as they are mostly letter sized bits. For example if my pins are .250 I don’t drill a .250” hole for the pin as I need a few thousands for epoxy and fit up if that makes any sense. Anymore I don’t buy too many as I purchased a tool to sharpen the smaller ones and have been very happy with sharpening them as I need.

From: Helgermite
27-Jan-23
Beautiful knives RJ. I was wondering where you buy the steel from? I have access to most of the standard tool steels O1, A2, D2, S7, CMPM4, but I haven't seen the steels you use from the suppliers I work with.

From: RJ Hunt
27-Jan-23
Helgermite, I buy much of my steel from New Jersey Steel. The Elmax steel is difficult to come by and normally needs to be purchased in sheet quantity direct from Bohler.

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