Insert pulling out of arrow
Contributors to this thread:Equipment
From: bghunter
27-Mar-23
I am naive when it comes to arrow building. I recently noticed my insert pulling out of my arrow when shooting.
Is there a specific glue to use to hold the insert in place ?
This is my practice arrow I shoot in the basement about 7 yards 5 times a day btw.
From: bghunter
27-Mar-23
From: JohnMC
27-Mar-23
One thing to do if you are not already is cleaning out inside of arrows before glueing in insert. I use a q-tip and alcohol. A lot of dust from when they are cut ends up in there and prevents glue from sticking.
I have used all kinds of glue from the expensive glues from the pro shops to cheap superglue and have not had any problems. With that said superglue can go bad. Personally I like the gel type superglues.
From: bghunter
27-Mar-23
Thanks John. There is nothing else wrong with the arrow so I was hoping for a simple fix
From: Buglmin
27-Mar-23
I switched to bohning cool max at the shop and we've yet to have an insert pull out. Superglues can't take repeated hard hitting and it breaks free.
From: Jethro
27-Mar-23
Max Impact glue from AAE has been very good for me.
From: yeager
28-Mar-23
I always lightly roughen the inside of the shaft with a bore brush. Then, like John, I clean the inside of the shaft with a Q-tip dipped in acetone and then wiped again with the dry side of the Q-tip. I also wipe off the insert with cloth soaked in acetone. Doing this I have never had an insert pull out after gluing.
From: wildwilderness
28-Mar-23
What brand arrow is that? I always have problems with Gold tip, and never a problem with Easton for some reason.
From: DanaC
28-Mar-23
Someone recently reminded me that when using hot melt glue and flame, you heat the insert, *not* the glue. As said above, bore brush, then swab. Dust and grease are the enemies.
From: Scrappy
28-Mar-23
From: Scrappy
28-Mar-23
Clean and use this, problem solved.
From: WhattheFOC
28-Mar-23
There’s a version of Gorilla Glue that is meant for impact. I’ve been using that and it works well but it sets so quickly that there is no opportunity to spin check and index. So - on my latest build I used a 2 part epoxy from Sirius. It has a setup time of 7 minutes which allows time for adjustments - and haven’t had one pull out yet. As stated above - prep is important. Lightly score with a bore brush, then clean with q-tip and alcohol.
From: craigmcalvey
28-Mar-23
I use a long curing epoxy. Impossible to remove inserts after. I want a zero chance of glue to insert failure. The arrows will fail before the epoxy ever will. I use jb steel compound, the 6-8 hour stuff if I recall correctly. Quick setting glue tends to be more brittle which is why I went away from the cyanoacrylate types. The brittleness is worse in cold weather too.
From: x-man
28-Mar-23
"Cleanliness is next to Godliness". Clean the inside of the shaft and the outside of the insert. If you touch the insert at all with your bare skin, the glue will not hold at that fingerprint location.
As a general rule of thumb, the faster a glue cures, the faster it will become brittle and fail.
From: elkmtngear
28-Mar-23
I'm with Scrappy, Loctite Ultra Gel Control, set it, and forget it!
From: BTM
28-Mar-23
My routine that's worked great for several decades: 1. Roughen up the insert with a file, the inside of the shaft with a .270 bore brush, and clean everything with 91% isopropyl alcohol (not 70% rubbing alcohol!) on a Q-Tip.
2. Use 24-hour epoxy (I've always used JB weld, but other brands might work just as well) -- not 5-minute epoxies.
I've heard that acetone might weaken carbon shafts. It might not be bad, but I use alcohol to be on the safe side.
From: bghunter
28-Mar-23
Thanks for all the information. I am learning a lot already. At least this way if I have issues with other arrows I now know what steps to take to fix it.
The arrows are Spartan Black Eagle built by South Shore Archery
From: x-man
28-Mar-23
You don't want to soak carbon arrows in acetone for days at a time like we used to do with aluminum arrows prior to fletching to clean all old glue off. Washing and drying with acetone is fine. Just always use latex gloves to protect your skin from the cleaner, and to keep your fingerprints off of the components.
From: Lawdog
28-Mar-23
All of the "quick glues" kept failing, even the ones specifically formulated for the purpose. I've only used long term epoxy-20 plus years. Go to your favorite local hardware store and get at least the 60 min version. Super glues of all types will eventually fail-usually at the most inopportune of times. To clean the inside of the shaft, I use denatured alcohol and a Q-Tip. Let them sit overnight, and you're good to go.
From: GFL
28-Mar-23
Jerry sold South Shore. I wouldn’t trust the new owner installing inserts.
From: bghunter
28-Mar-23
GFL,
I had these made in 2020 or 2021 can't remember.
From: Lawdog
28-Mar-23
Bg, making your own arrows is not difficult to learn nor is it hard to do. The only relatively pricey pieces of equipment are the cut off saw and fletching tool. I'm 50 miles from a shop in any direction and got tired of driving.
From: CCOVEY
28-Mar-23
Spartans are the only arrow i have ever had problems with. Hot melt was the only thing that worked for me on those. I tried epoxy, Blue glue, superglue, etc. Kimshaw Hotmelt has proven to be the best. Never had an issue with any other manufacturer and ive tried them all so ive always wondered about what is in the carbon in that specific arrow. I shoot the X Impact by BE and can use whatever for insert install and havent ever had one pull out.
From: Bill in MI
29-Mar-23
For a permanent fix that allows indexing, clean the inside of the shaft and inserts as mentioned above, finger oils and carbon residue being the culprits, I then use classic JB Weld. You can lodge a broadhead in a log and if you're determined enough, pull the complete arrow out intact. Ask me how I know. I got tired of the eventual failure I'd experience with hot melt glue sticks and superglue.
From: BTM
29-Mar-23
Amen, Bill! The only "downside" to proper shaft prep and JB Weld is the hernia you'll get trying to dislodge the arrow from a log! Since I started doing things right, I've never pulled a shaft free of the insert/broadhead. Sometimes I've had to dig the arrow out with a knife/chisel and a lot of grunting and swearing! :)
From: bghunter
29-Mar-23
Lawdog,
Now that I am retired maybe I will start looking into arrow making. Like you said the saw is the most expensive part. Or I could have them cut and do the rest myself.
From: Bill in MI
30-Mar-23
bghunter- I always had someone cut mine and then squared both ends and built them out to my specs. I didn't have the space at the time.
From: BTM
30-Mar-23
Re. cut-off saws, I never bought a dedicated arrow-shaft cutter because I already owned a 10" chop saw. I use it with a masonry- or metal-cutting blade without problems. Just debur the ends.
