Mathews Inc.
Compound bow advice
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
Randy Green 10-Dec-23
Bowboy 10-Dec-23
Randy Green 10-Dec-23
Bowboy 10-Dec-23
JHP 10-Dec-23
Randy Green 10-Dec-23
Randy Green 10-Dec-23
ND String Puller 10-Dec-23
KSflatlander 10-Dec-23
Deebz 10-Dec-23
JohnMC 10-Dec-23
Corax_latrans 10-Dec-23
Randy Green 11-Dec-23
Scrappy 11-Dec-23
fuzzy 11-Dec-23
Randy Green 11-Dec-23
M.Pauls 11-Dec-23
RonP 11-Dec-23
Randy Green 11-Dec-23
GFL 11-Dec-23
Catscratch 11-Dec-23
From: Randy Green
10-Dec-23
I’d appreciate some recommendations for a “simple set up” to get me back in the game. I’ve shot a stick bows for decades, and am developing arthritis in both hands and am no longer able to shoot without pain. I’ve looked at new bows and have no idea what I’m looking at. Also would need the trigger release that attaches to my wrist, any advice on them would be appreciated. Sorry to be so ignorant but I never paid any attention to modern equipment and the advancements are overwhelming.

From: Bowboy
10-Dec-23
Go to your Proshop and shoot some bows. If they’re a good shop they’ll get you the right bow and set up. Lots of great bows. Good luck!

From: Randy Green
10-Dec-23
They’re aren’t any around here. I figured it was a dumb question, but thought I’d give it a shot. I’ll figure it thanks.

From: Bowboy
10-Dec-23
You have any archery clubs nearby?

From: JHP
10-Dec-23
Just remember compounds are more efficient. If you are going this route to stay in the game. 35 pound compounds will generate roughly same power as a 45 0r 50 pound trad bow. Dont over bow if you have health issues.

From: Randy Green
10-Dec-23
Believe it or not hunters around here either use xbows or stick bows. I worked the local shoot a couple years ago and the trad shooters way outnumbered any other group. I’ll try to YouTube it and see what comes up. Glad I got most of my bucket list hunts done before this problem started.

From: Randy Green
10-Dec-23
Thanks timex, I’ll check em out. Never thought I’d be in this predicament til I hit 80 lol. Didn’t even make it to 70. You wouldn’t believe how many big bucks show up around my house when I can’t hunt

10-Dec-23
Randy, I know some other guys on bowsite went through the same process. I’m sure they will respond when they see your post. I know there are some specific models of bows they use. Some are considerably easier to draw with bad shoulders and such. Kudos to you keeping after it with a bow!

From: KSflatlander
10-Dec-23
Any relatively recently manufactured bows are all really good. Consider picking up a used flagship bow a few years old somewhere. A whisker biscuit rest might be best for you? For a new compound shooter I'd get a caliper release like a Tru Ball Stringer XT or something. I shoot trophy ridge ballistic vertical sights. Set your 20 and 30 or 40 yard pin and all 5 pins are set.

If you don't shoot a compound be careful if you let off without shooting. Don't hold the grip tight and torque the bow when letting down or the string can come off the cam. I've seen/heard it a few times with new compound shooters. Cringeworthy.

From: Deebz
10-Dec-23
If there aren't any small bow shops near you, are there any Bass Pro/Cabela's type stores? I've had pretty good luck talking with their techs and getting to shoot several different bows in store. There's a ton of options, so it's really about finding a bow that you feel comfortable drawing and shooting. Good Luck!

From: JohnMC
10-Dec-23
The first question you want answer is do you want to drop two plus grand for top of the line bow, rest, sight or do you want a more entry-level or used setup?

10-Dec-23
JMO….

If you’ve been shooting barebow for a long time, try the compound without sights . Or maybe just a peep (or kisser button) to tighten up your anchor, since that will very likely change. But you can use a hefty arrow to cut your velocity down close to what you’re used to, and the game will hardly have changed. Or you could add a single sight pin for reference and take advantage of the flatter trajectory. I don’t know if you’ve priced a fancy sight, but you can spend the cost of a used Custom on some of them….

Anyway, I shot compound for a bit, and what killed me was picking the right pin once things got to looking past 20-25 yards.

Depending on how you shoot your stickbows (gap vs more “instinctive”), a Biscuit- style rest may or may not bother you. I tried a drop-away and it was fantastic… until it iced up and cost me a shot on an Elk. I think if I ever find myself in your shoes, I’ll try a Flipper. (Rests, too, can blow your mind with the cost of the things….)

I bought a used high-end rig, and it shot great, but it wasn’t quite as great a cost savings as I’d planned, because I re-cabled it and it needed a new string, which added up fast. So factor that in.

From: Randy Green
11-Dec-23
Thanks for the help everybody. Corax loved your input, info like that helps me get my head around it. There’s a Cabelas an hour or so from here I’m headed to this week. I’m finding it crazy how different the two types of archery have become. Very intimidating using equipment that seems so fragile compared to my old recurve/walking stick.

From: Scrappy
11-Dec-23
Google archery shops around the address of the cabelas. Bet there will be more than one.

I've been shooting a little mission ballistic bow since 2013. It's a mid priced bow that will do all the things a flagship bow will do for less than half the price. No way in the world will I ever pay extra to accomplish the same goal.

I know it's been said multiple time but spend the extra time finding as many bow shops as you can. Keep us posted on your journey.

From: fuzzy
11-Dec-23
I'm in Same shape so far just went to lighter bows and don't shoot or bowhunt on bad weeks. Sorry I can't help more

From: Randy Green
11-Dec-23
No problem Fuzzy, I figured there were people in the same boat. Archery companies are missing out on marketing an old gizzer package lol.

From: M.Pauls
11-Dec-23
Hey Randy, I think there’s a level of maturity in the responses here in just suggesting to go shoot stuff and see what fits you. It’s easy for guys to just say “shoot this model” cause it’s what they like and shoot, but truthfully it may not fit you quite the same as it does them. It’s not a stupid question at all, the vague response though are coming from a good place though.

If it helps, I think it’s pretty tough to find a “bad” bow these days. Even the entry level stuff is so darn good.

Couple things I could think of….Much like stickbows, a bigger brace height and longer axle to axle will be a more forgiving bow, not that you have to go that route either. I have a pretty short bow and smaller brace height and I like it. Likely something with a lower rated IBO speed will have a smoother draw cycle, just a general rule of thumb. I agree on the recommendation of a whisker biscuit, the simplicity of them is pretty hard to beat, and that’ll be nice, coming from shooting off the shelf. You don’t need a stabilizer if you don’t want one. I’ve never shot with one and it’s been just fine.

From: RonP
11-Dec-23
before switching to a compound i would try using a release with your stickbow.

From: Randy Green
11-Dec-23
RonP you got my wheels turning. One way or another I have to learn to use a release aid. I’ve got close to a year to work on it and may be able to swap out the 40# limbs for something snappy.

From: GFL
11-Dec-23
One thing to know if there’s no bow shops you’ll need to learn to set up and work on your bow. Quite different than traditional bows. I recommend an older Mathews single cam and basically any good release will work. A compound is like an old car,it needs some work from time to time. The downside is all the tools you need to do it properly.

From: Catscratch
11-Dec-23
I was thinking exactly what RonP said, try a release with your stickbow first.

If you do decide to switch to a compound I'd recommend shooting a target bow at least once while shopping. They have long ATAs, long brace heights, and wheels instead of cams. I much prefer the feel of a target bow over a newer hunting bow.

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