Spotting Scopes thing of the past?
Equipment
I just got a trail pair of Sig Sauer ZULU6 Image stabilizing binoculars. I got approved as a dealer to sell these to my clients and so I wanted to try them to see if they’re all they are cracked up to be.
On my street there are some driveway markers with 5 numbers on them. 500-600 yards an away I could not read the numbers with my Meopta 10x42’s. THey’re fantastic glass, but just that small amount of jiggle had me unable to read them. Put up the 16x42 ZULU’s with image stabilization and it was as easy as reading a text message. It is literal instantly. The distance with which you can see detail is astounding. I could probably see better antler detail on a deer three quarters of a mile away with these freehanding as opposed to a deer 400 yards away with the best 10x glass available simply because of the shake factor. Because they are a binocular I would take them over a spotter 10 times out of 10. And it is like a spotting scope with zero shake in your hands.
I have nothing to gain, I am not a sponsor or influence or brand ambassador for them or anything, I was just blown away at the real world usage impacts. They are tiny too. Run on a AA battery. I can’t see ever taking a spotter on a hunt when I could take these. I’m honestly shocked that these aren’t making bigger waves than they are.
Looked through a pair of them at a TAC event. Pretty freakin amazing. Have you tried them at low light yet? 16x42 has a pretty small exit pupil diameter.
Adam, I don't think they will replace spotting scopes for all applications, but they certainly might for some. I have the 20Xs and I think I'm going to love them. I've played with them a bit, but I'm putting them to real use at the end of this week. Can't wait!
I use a tripod with my binos. I bet if you did the same you could read those markers.
As for a scope, it gets used when I'm looking at something over a mile away, sometimes three or more. Or if something is like 900 yards away but I really need to see the detail.
I think spotters will always serve an important purpose. Image stabilization probably replaces the tripod, although I'm not sure I want to be holding my bino for more than a minute without one. I think I will continue with the tripod.
I got the 20x42 and they are quite astounding. For target archery, I can one-hand them and use the stabilizer and see if arrows are in or out of the bullseye at 100 yards. Tricer also makes a very nice mount for it that slips onto the bottom of the unit right where the battery box is. I can still fit them in my marsupial pack with the tripod mount on it and it is so light, I just leave that on all the time. I can then use my tripod or monopod if I want to save the battery and glass for longer periods of time.
My only complaints are minor. They eat batteries fairly quickly, but carrying some spare AA batteries is negligible weight compared to a bigger scope. Also, because the overall length is shorted than a spotting scope and they are effectively straight instead of angled, I found that the handle for my fluid head was hitting my face when I was looking at them so I had to put it kind of backwards on the tripod, with the handle facing away from me. While awkward, this is a small issue and maybe others won't have it. My ultra compact fluid head didn't have many options for relocating the handle so I might have to find a different head. No way I am swapping out the SigSauers!
You can get a steady picture with binos on a tripod, but I honestly prefer this. Picture is steadier in a weird way…but I’m not bothered by having to use and bring along a tripod. A guy online said he got a year out of a single AA battery. Not sure how long they’ll last. There are two modes. The 2nd mode from what I understand uses more juice, so maybe if you use the first one which is essentially all I see as necessary the battery lasts longer.
Midwest I tried them in low light and they are good, but understandably darker than my 10x’s. At very last light and into the darkness I prefer my 10x for light gathering ability, like if I needed to let’s say “see a body in the field” at dark getting out of somewhere. I am actually curious about the 12x. Because now that I see what a difference getting rid of “the shake” makes, I wonder if the magnification is really necessary. You could easily count tines on something 1,000 yards away because it’s so rock solid. Maybe the 12’s would almost be like best of both worlds.
I love mine.
But my replacement for spotting scopes has been my BTX. They destroy a spotting scope of any brand. But these Sig’s are amazing
You “got approved as a dealer, to sell to clients”, and you “have nothing to gain”. So are you going to sell them at your cost?
Are there any concerns with battery life in really cold weather? I have an Sig range finder and it seems to act up when it gets down to about 10 degrees.
Pirogue I have nothing to gain talking to you all about it. I am not selling to you, therefore I won’t gain a dollar. I will certainly make a few bucks if my clients purchase them from me. But they are eco-tourists that don’t hang out on bow hunting websites ;)
Mike, I am not sure on the issues in cold weather but I was in Greenland when mine stopped working. A new battery fixed it. I kept the old and I suppose I can pop it back in and see if it works again in warmer temperatures. No idea how to test what level a regular AA battery is at.
Were you using lithium batteries?
The rechargeable was. The one that I had in there when it went dead was not (I am pretty sure. Can check tonight).
The unit will turn itself off after 10 minutes of non-use but if it is in motion like you are walking or something it will think it is in use and not turn off. So if you forget to turn it off all the time I could see it burning through batteries. But every review I've seen guys are getting like 6-12 months off a single regular AA battery. So battery life is essentially negligible.
Have been using the 16x's ever since my guide in Oregon introduced me to them a couple years ago. Hardly ever touch my "high end" bino's any more. These things are just too good. They are lighter. Smaller. And work incredibly well. And 1/3 the cost of the high end glass. For cold weather....I just used them on a polar bear hunt. No issues. Just keep a couple extra double A's in your bino harness. My guide in Spain liked them so much he ordered a pair while sitting at lunch.
Nothing works on a hot day. Do they clear up heat waves?
I've been looking at these for a while. What magnification would you recommend for out West hunting (elk, deer, etc.)? 16 or 20? I usually have my NL 12x42 or my 15x's on a tripod for longer glassing sessions. Not sure the Zulu will replace those, but probably plan on using them for the same situation--long glassing sessions.
Bowmad I can't answer your magnification question - maybe someone else can. But I will be using the 16's for a while here and then really curious about the 12's. One thing for sure is that so much of the detail we don't see is not a magnification issue, but really an issue of not being solid enough.
I am seriously wondering if the upside of additional light on the 12's would be of greater use to me than the additional magnification of the 16's. When I can't make something out 400 yards away with my handheld 10's the only issue is the handholding part. If they were on a tripod it wouldn't be an issue. Having eliminated the shake, I am curious about getting by with less magnification.
The problem I have with going over 16, is that the field of view keeps getting smaller and smaller. I've used 10x's most of my life, and really like the wider field of view. That's the only downside to the 16x. (You can only see a fraction of what you could see with the 10x's.) If I'm hunting close quarters, there's no reason to have the 16x. But, for out West, or any type of mountain hunt, I sure like having the 16x. Where weight and limited gear are factors, I don't want to carry a tripod or 2 sets of binos. The ZULU 16x's have been a great way to scale back, and get great performance at the same time.
Has anybody compared them to Canon Image Stabilization III ?
The new generation has 50mm objectives. 14x, 16x, 18x
I have some canon IS binos but they were 8x30 and not enough zoom for me. Operationally, I preferred how Canon did it with the placement of the IS activation button and I didn't mind having to hold it down to keep the IS active. That said, I was looking at their larger binos and they were just so heavy and big compared to the Sigs. My Canon was earlier tech though, I assume IS 1 or 2 but cannot remember. Certainly they were not III's.
Thanks, I'm curious... had very good luck with both Sig Sauer and Canon products, printers, cameras, Sig rangefinder
I have been using these the last couple of years on hunts. I have not used my 15x binos on a tripod since.
They especially come in handy when "runnin' and gunnin'" for antelope and oryx (in NM) hunting or glassing a sage flat for cow elk on a youth hunt. Quick surveillance without spending time setting up the tripod.
I will, however, bring my tripod this year on a couple of oryx hunts just in case we decide to sit tight for awhile and glass.
I'm using 20xs on a muley hunt right now. It's crazy what they can do. But for this kind of hunt they don't replace a spotting scope. We've done some very long range spotting and we've needed the higher mag for much of it.
