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Opinions please.

Okay, so I am looking for some advice here. I am trying to get back in to archery. Not just bow hunting but archery. I miss shooting, the whole process of archery. I have been out of it because I have had back, shoulder and neck issues that have caused me to not be able to pull my bow, pretty much at all. I have been getting better, but now it seems like I have hit a wall and am in a stalemate as far as strength goes. Long story short, I had a broken neck in 8 places when I was in the Army... Kinda weird, I didn't know that it happened for several months after it happened. Anyhow, that caused some issues with the nerves being impinged and getting numbness and pain running down my arms and hampering my ability to hold my bow at draw, raise my arms over my head, comb my hair, you know stuff like that. Anyway, I got a spinal fusion, C-4-5-6 and both shoulders rebuilt. I did all the PT and now I am pretty much as good as it's gonna get. I am looking at getting rid of my Mathews V3 31 and pick up a Mathews Lift 29.5 at #55. I think that if I back off the limb bolts 2 turns, that should bring it down to where I can pull it and build from there. As it stands now, my V3 is backed out so far, the dealer said that there is a good chance that the bolts will strip out.... I'm at about #48 right now.. Anyhow, my question is... Anyone have and experience with this bow and the internal components? I am pretty intrigued by them, but don't want to spend an assload of money on something that is gonna turn in to a big, expensive paperweight. All replies will be considered. Thanks guys, JayG

"the dealer said that there is a good chance that the bolts will strip out"

Can you really afford that? Get a youth bow if you must, but take the safe route.

Ever consider a light 'target' recurve? Might be easier than drawing 'over the hump' with a compound.

I had a mathews vxr 31.5 and a bowtech revolt x at the same time, identical draw weights, both 70 pounds, checked on my LCA scale, the mathews felt 10 pounds heavier, my weaker buddy couldn't even draw it but he could draw the revolt x. So if the v3 is anything like the vxr its a terrible bow if you have issues, sell it and get a bow with a better draw cycle.

I guess I am a skeptic . I would put the bow on a press and measure the thread engagement. If it is more than 2 diameters you are safe. Less it is time to find other options.

Feels like perhaps hitting the gym (or buying some additional home gym stuff) and getting stronger. I'd think you could shoot the bow @ 50, but maybe getting stronger before shooting much to reduce risk of injury from shooting?

I have a diamond sb1 . It has a draw length adjustment from 26 to 31" and draw weight range of 5 to 70 # . You could find a used one pretty cheap and set it up however you wanted it.

Man don't be afraid to shoot a bow with 40 to 50 pound limbs. People kill critters just as dead with those every year. Do whatever it takes to get back in the game. Best of luck and keep us posted.

Try some different bows at a pro shop, a good selection should produce one that will get you back in the game!

Any particular reason you are stuck on a Lift? Between the limb issues and draw cycle, there are much better options for someone who needs a smooth draw. I would recommend looking at several other options. The smooth drawn Mathews of old the lift isnt. One of Hoyt's new offerings claims 70 feels like 60. The EC2 cam on any of the PSEs is going to be a much smoother draw. Or, as suggested, get a diamond with a large range of adjustment. And use that til you get your feet back under you. In your shoes, surely wouldn't limit myself to one brand, or one bow. A good shop will set up what you need and let you shoot til the bow that works finds you

Jay, glad to see you back. I wouldn't get hung up on any particular brand. There are a lot of bows out there with very smooth draw cycles that make the draw weight feel less than it actually is. Maybe a longer ATA bow or more brace height will be the ticket. Lots of very fast bows out there even at lower draw weights as well. The point is to try to shoot as many different bows before deciding which is best for you.

Rule of thumb I’ve typically heard is you need at least 4 threads of the limb bolt engaged in the riser. I’d feel comfortable at that, or at the depth of the height of a nut for the limb bolt.

But you need to know what that is. Maybe someone here can measure a limb bolt for your model bow. The shop owner may or may not be giving you good information as his business is to sell new bows.

I have a brother who shot a 60-70# Mathews from around 2003 (my old bow) at 47#s for years due to shoulder issues and subsequent surgery and recovery. Shot whitetails with it too. Not your model bow though.

Good luck with it.

It’s all about the draw force curve and how it will affect each individual. I have what is considered a “smooth” drawing bow in the bowtech ss34 and it bothers my shoulder more than my new elite ethos with performance mods. It’s all in where the weight stacks up in the draw and how that will impact your injury issues. Try different bows if you go with something new to find what’s good for you.

Should have added that the ss34 has smooth mods and still gives me issues.

I shot my first deer with a 40# recurve and got a complete pass through. I shot my first buck with a 39# round wheeled compound and got a complete pass through. Neither deer made it over 50 yards. Even with a short draw length, a 40# compound less than 30 years old is acceptable to kill the biggest buck with the right arrow and shot placement. I would start light and work up. Why risk injury!

Forget about a ‘hunting’ bow. The draw/force curve is bumpy - not what you want. Try a low poundage target bow. I don’t know all the brands, but I own a TRX36 with 60 lb limbs - it draws like butter. Look for a used TRX34 and put the 50lb limbs on it … that is what I intend to do when Father Time says so.

Dealing with some of those issues myself Jay. Not in my arms but due to sciatica. Some days it is crippling nearly. Other days it Bad deal when your nerves are messed up for sure.

In my experience having own PSE, Mathews, Elite, and another brand that may now be defunct, I found the Elite to be the smoothest and easiest to draw. I’d be surprised if you found an Elite that didn’t draw smoother than a Mathews of the same draw weight. My last three bows were Elites and I really liked them.

Jay, Go shoot a PSE bow with an EC2 cam if you can. That cam has an incredibly smooth draw. If you like it sell your V3 and pick up any of the EC2 bows.

As I said back in August, I would look at PSE and Diamonds for complete adjustability and plenty of energy at a decent price. I don't know anything about Elite but I like what drycreek said. I would try these other bows before spending money on other options.

Just get yourself a 25 lb bow. You'll most likely be able to shoot it. You can switch out limbs as you are able to.

Longer limb bolts.

Boreal X2, The PSE bows with the EC2 cams are exactly what I was describing in my post above. Check Ebay, you may find one for a great price.

You must know what your comfortable with but there lots of compunds out there that are 45# and 50# and the right arrow set up will easily take a whitetail. Glad your up and at em. I would be researching bows with lower poundage limbs , I got limbs for my old Mathews z9 because of my long draw and changed my arrow set up and still killin em

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