Ironwill tuning issue
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
I bit stumped, looking for some help. Bow specs, Prime Revex, 64#, 29.75” GT Hunter XTs, 100 grain insert. I’m a Rancy Fairy geek and worked in an archery shop for 6 years (a long time ago). I build my own arrows, inserts squared, nock tuned and left fletched. I have a paper tune set up, bullet holes easily. Been shooting RMS Cutthroat 150 left single bevels- fly great, impact right with my field tips. I got IronWill wide 150 SB lefts as I was looking for a bit bigger cutting surface and bleeder blades. I aligned the head vertical for my first shot at 20, impact was 3” low and 4” left. Repeated this shot 2 times- same result. I then went horizontal, now 5” low and 6” left with 2 shots. Last group was with the head oriented 10:30 to 4:30, same as first group. Not sure why the bit larger profile is throwing them off at just 20 yards. I did build the arrows for my Black 1, which tossed them out with left spin. I have not checked if the Revex does the same, which shouldn’t make a huge difference, but could be a factor. Any thoughts from the bow tuners or IronWill shooters that had tuning issues pop up?
You dont mention spine, but assuming 300s with that setup. If 350s, then way under spined.
Some broadheads are way better at covering up tuning errors than others. Cutthroats are one of them. Magnus as well. I shot cutthroat wides last year and they were dead on with FPs out to 60. I put a Simmons tree shark on, and not so much. Once I tuned the bow to the tree shark, the cutthroats were still dead on.
Not to mention, some broadheads are way more sensitive to grip and torque. However, since yours are repeatable to the same positions, I would assume tune. Broadhead tune to the IWs, and I bet you will find the cutthroats still fly great too.
I was going the same place as Mo/Ark.
I have found GT not easy to tune. Try a different arrow
Of course I type all that out and leave out spine…. 300s. Mo/Ark, no grip or torque issues, shoot off the flat of my thumb. Going to have to bring BH target to my man cave and paper tune to the BH. Need to check arrow rotation from the Revex for sure
My iron will s125 group easily group with my slick tricks and my field points. I am shooting 62# matthews mq1, 29.5 dl and victory 350 spine arrows.I know this isn't the answer to what you are asking.
It is a spine issue. A 29.75” arrow is long and gets really weak when you add an extra 150 grains up front. If you put a standard insert in the arrow I bet it would tune perfect.
250 grains up front is a lot. Anything past 28” of carbon gets weak fast as Bowfreak said. A broad head hitting low could need your nock point moved lower or it could need the arrow shorter. I always tried correcting the vertical needs first then the horizontal.
Clocking broad heads makes no sense. If the bow isn’t launching the arrow strait it doesn’t matter if the broad head starts vertical, horizontal or anything in between.
I always looked at a paper tune as a starting point. Just because you can shoot a bullet hole at a short distance doesn’t mean everything is perfectly tuned.
"I’m a Rancy Fairy geek..."
I think I see the problem. ;-)
Ha, I was going to say the same thing Midwest....
RF is the guy that a couple of years ago stated he didn't do any tuning. Then when folks laughed at his idiocy...he comes out with a tuning vid on his channel...
PT Barnum was right....there are folks that suck up what these fringe internet guys are selling....
I was going to say the same thing, problem is your following RF, now get a regular easton fmj, proper spine, a 340 or a 300 will work, now enjoy a tuned bow that will shoot any bh, tune easily and be way more forgiving in hunting situations. And if your only deer hunting trash the fixed heads for a quality mech
Ok, I said "geek"- meaning I like to dig into the details of how and why things work. I didn't say I'm a fanboy and going to get a tattoo...LOL. His arrow tuning stuff has nuggets worth thinking about. I hunted for 15 years with recurve and have always leaned on the heavy side with arrows, cut on contact heads, decent FOC, etc. I was just suprised to see this head come out and head low/left like it did. As stated, the 150 Cutthroats fly great, also have 3 blade-150 Wensel Woodsman heads that fly well from it. I checked shaft rotation this morning- it's left, so my flething is fine. I'm not discounting spine, I know the arrow length at that spine is border line, but I've had good results with the other 150 options I've put on them. More testing and tuning...
I quickly plugged your info into AA. You are woefully underspined.....
You're WAY beyond decent FOC. I don't understand why anyone would want to fight an easy tune and range forgiveness so they could shoot so-called "adult arrows".
Lots of good advise above, but the Cutthroats have a different cut outs on the feral/blade vs. the smooth feral/blades of the Iron wills, may not make sense but it does, as the broadheads will grab/drag air differently, this could be a part of your issue.
Just placed an order for 250 spine shafts. Should be the ticket to correcting flight issues
Seems like sometimes archers make a problem just so they can go looking for a cure.
You could take a few turns out of your limbs and see if that helps your flight
There is a problem with those prime bows, the cables sit too close to the riser and can come in contact with your arm, could actually be the bow
I did take 2 full turns (8#) off the limbs- instantly had much better flight. Did some walk back shots with the iron wills and got to 40 with them flying well at that bow weight. It dawned on me the other day about the GT 300s. I realized I had ordered them a touch shorter than my previous set of GTs, and I did so on purpose. I was going to build them to shoot the local TAC event near me. I ended up not being able to go, so I built them like my normal hunting set up and put the 100gr inserts in them. Like I stated, had no issues with the smaller profile cutthroats last fall, but just that bit larger profile of the Iron wills, showed the flaw in my system. I stopped at the local shop and bought one 250 spine arrow, cut to 30" and left fletched it, cranked my poundage back up to my normal 64#- perfect flight with the IW heads. Bowfreaks chart is was what stirred my memory of purchasing those shafts. thanks for all the replies guys