2025 edition let’s make a knife!
Contributors to this thread:Equipment
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
Welcome to my shop
Welcome to my shop
Ok guys… let’s do this again. This year we will be making a lightweight hunting/field dressing knife with the capacity to take apart and elk, deer or bear with ease. My goal is to make this blade to be as light as possible without sacrificing a full sized handle and a blade close to 3”. We will discuss the steel and its characteristics and why choosing that steel, designing the knife from start, heat treatment, geometry of the blade bevels and how they affect performance and usability, finishing the knife blade and handles them sheathing the knife. Follow along… i will be as detailed as I can, I will be updating with pictures as I go in real time and will be answering any questions as they come up. I look forward to sharing my craft with your guys and thanks for all the interest. Blessings Rob m Niche Custom Bladeworks
From: Will
06-Jan-25
Looking forward to this! Enjoy building the blade, and thanks for edumacating us along the way.
From: BOWNBIRDHNTR
06-Jan-25
Looking forward to it Rob!
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
Thanks guys. When get a minute will get some pics posted.
From: DroptineDC18
06-Jan-25
Proud owner of a Niche Knife I received for a Christmas gift. Following along! Thanks Rob!
From: DroptineDC18
06-Jan-25
Proud owner of a Niche Knife I received for a Christmas gift. Following along! Thanks Rob!
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
Steel thickness is about 0.10”
Steel thickness is about 0.10”
This is the steel we will be using for this knife. Bohler M390 is a powder stainless steel, one of the finest steels to make a blade from, capable of performing very well at high hardness (62 hrc or more) and have adequate toughness for a fixed blade of this size. M390 has excellent wear resistance and for elk / deer hide that’s what we are after for this knife.
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
Steel thickness is about 0.10”
Steel thickness is about 0.10”
This is the steel we will be using for this knife. Bohler M390 is a powder stainless steel, one of the finest steels to make a blade from, capable of performing very well at high hardness (62 hrc or more) and have adequate toughness for a fixed blade of this size. M390 has excellent wear resistance and for elk / deer hide that’s what we are after for this knife.
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
Here I am roughing out the knife visually. I don’t spend a lot of time drawing out as so often what looks good on paper won’t work in real life
Here I am roughing out the knife visually. I don’t spend a lot of time drawing out as so often what looks good on paper won’t work in real life
The last part I do without gloves so can feel the knife as I go and ensure I like to fit of the handle shape in hand.
The last part I do without gloves so can feel the knife as I go and ensure I like to fit of the handle shape in hand.
Sorry double post.
So here we go with the design process. I don’t use any CAD or software I use a sharpie and tape. I rough out the blade/handle shape I like. I will cut away the extra steel on the bandsaw and then take to the grinder to rough out and adjust the shape for feel and balance.
From: Blood
06-Jan-25
I like this knife already. Lightweight and tough.
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
I finish the profiling on some small grinder wheels to clean up the radius’s
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
If you look close the grinder marks at running perpendicular to the knife and we need to get those cleaned up and more refined before heat treat (all this work so far is being done prior to hardening of the steel) and smooth out all the lines.
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
A little cleaning up the rough grinder marks and get those lines running the length of the blade.
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
That’s the back of the knife where I will add my jimping with a round file.
From: Supernaut
06-Jan-25
Great thread, beautiful knives!
Looking forward to following along.
From: Stoneman
06-Jan-25
Thanks RJ! Looking forward to following along.
From: JB
06-Jan-25
Thank you for taking us along again!
From: Dale06
06-Jan-25
Very interesting, I’m enjoying this.
From: TMac
06-Jan-25
Looking forward to this and think it will cost me but that’s a good thing.
From: Scar Finga
06-Jan-25
I now have 6 of Robs knives and I think between my friends and family we are going to put his kids through college!! LOL! Rob is the man, and you won't find a better knife at any price! He truly does amazing work, and his knives are so scary sharp and hold an incredible edge!!
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
So here is what we have so far… a knife shaped piece of m390 steel. Once again all this work is being done in the “annealed” state. That means the steel is pretty soft and machine able. We can drill holes with standard bits and use Rufus or files to work the steel. After heat treatment all material removal will need to be done with ceramic belts and tungsten carbide bits Sonia best to do as much drilling and filing now.
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
Thanks scar Finga
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
I do these by eye with a round saw file
I do these by eye with a round saw file
On the spine of the knife above the cutting edge I like to put some jimping, or notches with a file for a place for my finger to rest when working at times. Also it gives some character.
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
I’m now working on marking and center punching the pin holes and lanyard tube hole.
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
Here is our progress so far. As can see in the picture I also chamfer all the pin holes.
Here is our progress so far. As can see in the picture I also chamfer all the pin holes.
I drill out to size with one sized bit. In the past I would drill a pilot hole but this type of steel seems to work harden in some areas and you end up trashing bits reaming out the pilot holes. I also run a cutting oil to keep things running smooth.
From: butcherboy
06-Jan-25
I really enjoy your knife making threads. I really like this size of knife for hunting and could probably use it as an edc as well.
From: WV Mountaineer
06-Jan-25
Yes sir!!! I love it.
From: hdaman
06-Jan-25
They are an amazing piece of craftsmanship!
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
Thanks for all the kind responses. My goal is to get the heat treatment done this week and will share the process as well. I’m gonna sneak out tomorrow and look for some coyotes then be back late am.
From: fastflight
06-Jan-25
What's the blue "ink" on the tilop of the blade before you file the jimping?
From: RJ Hunt
06-Jan-25
The “blue ink” is machinists dye called Dykem. I paint the steel blue so I can see scribe marks and when doing file work allows me to see minute variances to correct.
From: molsonarcher
07-Jan-25
Rob maked great knives. I have a few and knos a couple guys that have a few. They wotk and hold up wonderfully well.
Great thread Rob ! Thanks for posting another.
From: SD
07-Jan-25
Favorite threads ever!
From: Altitude Sickness
07-Jan-25
Great looking profile
From: Wv hillbilly
07-Jan-25
I really enjoy seeing the process Rob! Thanks for taking the time to do it again. Great work as always.
From: Lewis
07-Jan-25
Very cool ?? enjoy seeing the process thank you sir Lewis
From: Dale06
07-Jan-25
What are you thinking for a handle?
From: MasterTrack24
07-Jan-25
Fun thread to follow. Can’t wait to see the finished knife
From: RJ Hunt
07-Jan-25
This is elk antler, blue trustone and curly Blackwood. An option
This is elk antler, blue trustone and curly Blackwood. An option
This is elk antler, mammoth molar split and curly tazzy Blackwood
This is elk antler, mammoth molar split and curly tazzy Blackwood
This is crosscut mammoth fossil ivory as an option as well.
This is crosscut mammoth fossil ivory as an option as well.
This is a green micarta option with stripes. Options are pretty open as I make all my handle sets in house.
This is a green micarta option with stripes. Options are pretty open as I make all my handle sets in house.
For the handle I was debating a simple micarta handle or something real nice like elk antler, fossil mammoth or some sort, maybe some trustone. I am open to suggestions.
From: Knifeman
07-Jan-25
Considering the fact you seem to be making a utilitarian style with this one, I think it needs to be micarta, olive green or burgandy are my favorites, or even g10 or ultrex. Maybe not the fanciest material, but the toughest, best handle material for hunting,/caping/field dressing knives imo.
From: bowhunter24
07-Jan-25
Thanks Rob for doing another knife series, I will never tire watching a craftsman work. I did fail you though, with tag soup this year...I did not get the pleasure of using my knife this fall, but there is always spring turkey!
From: RK
07-Jan-25
giraffe bone
From: hawkeye in PA
07-Jan-25
Always enjoy your knife craftsmanship, thanks for posting!
From: Bowbender
07-Jan-25
Love this thread! I would do the green micarta or the crosscut mammoth. Like the contrast on that one.
From: Slate
07-Jan-25
Pretty damn cool
From: Altitude Sickness
07-Jan-25
Orange with black trim Micarta
From: WhattheFOC
07-Jan-25
Orange/black was my thought as well.
I enjoy these threads.
From: RJ Hunt
07-Jan-25
I have some combos I do with orange/black
From: blackbear62
07-Jan-25
I would like the black to orange with the mammoth tooth. Thanks love this thread. Mark
From: Dale06
07-Jan-25
Those are some great looking handles!
From: Paul@thefort
07-Jan-25
Rob, an artist at work for sure. Thanks for the show. My best, Paul
From: W8N4RUT
07-Jan-25
It would be cool to see some kind of time duration included with the posts--for example, the grinding is only a pic but how much time does it take to get thru that step? Patience is a virtue with your craft!
Scott
From: RJ Hunt
07-Jan-25
Is hard cause I can’t post videos to show the time. For example. Grinding with the 8” wheel and a 36 grit belt to get roughed out takes less then 10 minutes.
From: RJ Hunt
07-Jan-25
Here is an orange/black option for a handle. Let me know what you guys like best.
From: drycreek
07-Jan-25
Thanks for doing this again Rob, I really enjoy the pictures and the explanations. I’m sorry to say that I didn’t bloody mine this year. Although I killed two deer and field dressed another one with my buddy, I could not bring myself to carry it in the field. I know, I know, I’ll rectify that next year I promise ! ;-))
From: Ambush
07-Jan-25
Hard to believe a functional tool can also be so very beautiful!!
From: fastflight
07-Jan-25
I agree with the orange and black combo. That last knife with elk antler toward the blade would be my vote.
From: buckeye
08-Jan-25
It needs some mammoth
From: WhattheFOC
08-Jan-25
Black and mammoth with orange accent.
From: monmouth533-1
08-Jan-25
beautiful work. How often do you have knives available? I see everything on your site is sold out.
From: RJ Hunt
08-Jan-25
Monmouth…. I only make about 200-250 knives per year and have a wait list right now at about 6-8 months. If wanted something specific made reach out to me and we can work something out. On the website I may not have inventory for some time.
From: RJ Hunt
08-Jan-25
Also… I forgot to mention this knife will not have a sharpening choil (or a Spanish notch) on the blade. With a smaller blade like this there is a chance we will use the entire length of the cutting edge and done want it to have up on the hide just in case.
From: Helgermite
08-Jan-25
How about orange with black accents?
From: Altitude Sickness
08-Jan-25
I prefer your handles with more of the material being the same with small accents. The ones with 3 different materials are IMHO too busy. I would prefer all bone, all antler, or all wood with small accents. Not all three in such a small space.
From: RJ Hunt
08-Jan-25
The “up and down is powered by me”
The “up and down is powered by me”
Now the surface material that was non hardening 304 stainless from rolling the billet is removed we will next cut the swedge on top of the blade and clean for heat treat
Now the surface material that was non hardening 304 stainless from rolling the billet is removed we will next cut the swedge on top of the blade and clean for heat treat
Ok…. Now that we have the profile set and file work done we need to run the flats on the surface grinder just to make sure there are no imperfections in the steel and major issues we need to correct. Much easier to correct anything in steel around 20hrc vs after we heat treat it to 63hrc or so.
From: bowhunter24
08-Jan-25
Nice, your surface grinder is magnetized which will help with warping issues if held other ways. When I was running a computerized lathe; on hardened steel in a mold shop; I would have a magnetic chuck to hold my parts as I turned them. It took a little getting used to spinning a part at 1500 rpm on a magnet!
From: RJ Hunt
08-Jan-25
Ok. With the consensus looks like we will be doing a Black/orange combo of some sort… maybe with some black micarta. Will see what I can come up with in my pea sized melon.
From: Coop
08-Jan-25
Maybe I missed it but what is the thickness of this blade?
From: RJ Hunt
08-Jan-25
Coop… will be on the 0.10” to 0.09”
From: Altitude Sickness
09-Jan-25
I love my Green micarta Niche knife. Can’t wait to see the black and orange
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
Here you can see the centerline of the blade after marking
Here you can see the centerline of the blade after marking
Back on track… ok now before getting this knife heat treated we need to remove just the corner of the 90 degree edge so when we go to a fresh grinding belt (yes… knife makers call “sanders” grinders) we don’t shear off all our abrasive and ruin an expensive ceramic belt. For reference I take over to a machinists plate and use a height scribe to mark the centerline
From: SD
09-Jan-25
Bowhunter24, I used to program and operate a CNC lathe in a mold shop. We didn't have a magnetic chuck for it, that would have put me on edge! It took me a few tries to get comfortable with the magnets on the surface grinders.
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
SD… same for me on this one. I’m waiting for that blade to shoot off like a spear so I stay out of its way just in case.
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
Small swedge added
Small swedge added
And the corner of the bevels removed
And the corner of the bevels removed
Here I am cutting a small swedge, for looks and one more added detail. At this step I will also break the corner of the bevel off
From: Scoot
09-Jan-25
I love the knife drycreek posted above. I really like the contrasting colors with the small transition piece that incorporates components/colors from each side of it. It's really sharp looking!
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
Now all the grinder and “pre heat treat” work is done I give a soak in Acetone to remove all the blue Dykem and any oils that may burn at 2000+ Fahrenheit while in the oven.
From: fishin coyote
09-Jan-25
Very cool. I'm learning as I drool over the pictures. Thanks for doing the build along again
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
Ok. Heat treatment day. This knife will need to cook at 2100f for 30 minutes then cool rapidly between ice cold aluminum plates. To accomplish this we will use my computer controlled kiln set to 2100f
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
While that is heating up we will need to protect the steel of the knife, the m390 blade will be destroyed if not protected from the environment as any air/oxygen will burn it up. To do so we wrap the knife in an air tight 309 SS foil envelope. I also add a Dusting of pure talc baby powder to prevent to foil from welding to the knife under those temps.
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
All sealed up and waiting for the oven to come up to temperature. Should take about 45 minutes to heat up to 2100f
From: greenmountain
09-Jan-25
I was about to send a PM. 2100 then a rapid chill. Do you you do an inert gas to prevent surface oxidation? I use an oil quench when I have to harden. The surface is never pretty. I deal mostly in 4140 sometimes 17-4.
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
The foil seals out any air so the surface will be almost perfect when out. I plate quench as can place between the plates while still sealed in the foil wrap. Will show how I do soon.
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
The knife is inside the foil packet
The knife is inside the foil packet
After a 30 min soak at 2100 degrees it comes out and I clamp between cold aluminum water cooled plates. The knife will be cool to the touch in less than 30 seconds.
After a 30 min soak at 2100 degrees it comes out and I clamp between cold aluminum water cooled plates. The knife will be cool to the touch in less than 30 seconds.
The oven is up to temp and is going in
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
You can see the knife was pretty well protected from the high temps. There is a little bit on the tail of the knife but that’s ok as we will grind all that away later.
You can see the knife was pretty well protected from the high temps. There is a little bit on the tail of the knife but that’s ok as we will grind all that away later.
After being clamped in the cold plates for 1 minute the knife is easily handled with bare hands. Now to finish the hardening process the steel must be cooled to -200f.
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
Here I have the knife on a hanger going onto a dewar full of liquid nitrogen at -320f
Here I have the knife on a hanger going onto a dewar full of liquid nitrogen at -320f
Within 3 minutes of being at 2100f in the oven and cooling between the plates we will now freeze the knife in liquid nitrogen for 12-24 hours to complete the hardening process process
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
Now that knife will need to sit for a time period let me know if you have any questions. Will answer them all as best I can. Thank you Rob m
From: Altitude Sickness
09-Jan-25
This process makes us realize how much labor goes into one. AND there is a difference in quality from a mass production knife
From: fastflight
09-Jan-25
Is this knife sold already? Also, your goal in the first post was to make a lightweight knife. Other than smaller blade size are there other ways this knife will be lighter than others you have made? Lighter steel, lighter handle material, more holes drilled, etc?
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
Fast flight. This knife will be lighter that the other full handled knives I have made as will be a thinner blade stock (0.10), more compact and slim profiled handle, shorter blade. I will also hollow grind out the tang and taper it down to remove extra weight. We can weigh when done to see the outcome but… most my knives are lighter then expect for size. This one should be no exception.
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
Also… fast flight. This knife is not sold already. When is done and I am happy with the fit and finish of it I will put up for sale to any bowsite members first if they wan it.
I thank all who are following along. I love sharing my craft and to show what goes into the knives I make.
Rob m
From: SD
09-Jan-25
I see you wearing earmuffs in several of your pics. When I worked in a machine shop it could get pretty loud, but I assume you're in a private shop with only you working. Is it loud in there or are the muffs a force of habit?
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
SD… I wear muffs cause the machines are pretty loud and with many years hunting with rifles and such I want to preserve any hearing have left. Even high pressure air can be loud so when I run any power tool I got my ear muffs on. I like to be able to hear the elk come September.
From: SD
09-Jan-25
I get that. I had a hearing check done in high school. One of those things where the whole school has to go through the line and test. She looked at me and said "you shoot guns a lot don't ya?". That was in the mid 80s and I've been pretty careful since. But when my oldest was born he didn't have a left ear. We became VERY conscious of protecting our hearing ever since. So now I take notice (and interest) in stuff like that. Kudos to you!
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
On a side note… I generally grind and finish 3-4 knives at a time but when I run a heat treat cycle and load up on liquid nitrogen I like to do a few at a time. Here is some of the other knives I was working on during the making of this one for this thread.
From: SD
09-Jan-25
Oh my goodness! That pic ^^^ is beautiful!
How many do you make a yr?
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
I do 200-250 per year. All in house by hand and each knife is hand satin finished.
From: JohnMC
09-Jan-25
If a guy wanted to get into making knives but not jump in head first with all the bells and whistles you have in your shop. What realistically would a guy need? Is knife making something a guy could test the waters without having to spend a significant amount of money?
From: RJ Hunt
09-Jan-25
John. There are some YouTube videos that break it down pretty well. There is one specifically by Arron Gough “making a knife with Simple tools” if I remember correct. One thing though… always use known steel and don’t try with old files or rasps as you never really know what it is and if you can harden it. Start with something simple like 1080 or 80crv2 for steels
From: JohnMC
09-Jan-25
Thanks I will look it up!
From: RJ Hunt
10-Jan-25
I use a Rockwell tester I keep in my basement for temp consistency
I use a Rockwell tester I keep in my basement for temp consistency
So after a night in the Liquid nitrogen doing what is called “cryogenic treatment” the knif then goes back into the oven at 350f for two hours two times to draw off some of the hardness and bring in some toughness. This is called the tempering of the blade. The higher you temper the softer the blade in most cases. All steels are different. Some can handle the high hardness 62HRC or more while most can not. Also… most factory knives can’t or won’t run their knives as hard as I do and I am not sure why but I believe it has to do with cost to control the variable to achieve high hardness or difficulty to machine…. I’m not sure but there are levels we as custome makers can do that many “mass produced” knives don’t. Now… some will say “that knife to too hard to sharpen because the steel is hard” and to answer that difficulty to sharpen has more to do with poor heat treat and poor edge geometry. Ok… off my soap box… time to test the hardness of this blade.
From: RJ Hunt
10-Jan-25
Looks like right at 62.9-63.0hrc. Bohler M390 at this hardness and a fine edge geometry will cut VERY well. Won’t be suited to chopping though a pelvis but cutting meat and hide you will not find a better cutter.
From: RJ Hunt
10-Jan-25
Ok… let’s start making the handle scales and grinding the bevels.
From: bowhunter24
10-Jan-25
Thanks again Rob I get a smile every morning reading this thread!
From: BOWNBIRDHNTR
10-Jan-25
^^^ I get a smile every time I pick up one of my Niche knives! My little caper has quickly become a favorite and rides nicely in my bino harness. And guys, don't be afraid to use these knives, as beautiful as they are they are also made to work! We will have to do something extra special for the next two Rob!
From: blackbear62
10-Jan-25
How close are you to melting the blade when heat treating at 2100 degrees.
From: deerhunter72
10-Jan-25
Always like and appreciate these threads! Nice to have craftsman like yourself to share your wealth of knowledge and experience.
From: RJ Hunt
10-Jan-25
Thanks guys I appreciate all the positive comments.
Blackbear… most steel melts at 2500-2800 (my best guesss) so we are cooking it hot enough to put all the elements in solution but not melt the knife or grow the grain structure of the steel. That said… the knife is pretty soft at 2100f as can bend it like a piece of New York pizza at that temp
From: sitO
10-Jan-25
Rob, what is the difference or uniqueness of this blade? By the way, my brother loves his knife, thank you again.
From: sitO
10-Jan-25
This one
From: Schmitty78
10-Jan-25
I always look forward to these threads RJ!! If you decide to sell this one to a Bowsite guy I’d be more than happy to put my name in to buy it!! You make some awesome looking knives!
From: fastflight
10-Jan-25
What are your top few favorite steels to use for your knives? Any advantages to each one? Some easier to work with?
From: RJ Hunt
10-Jan-25
Here is the profile before I drilled the holes and did the file work. If you look close you can see the pattern welds.
Here is the profile before I drilled the holes and did the file work. If you look close you can see the pattern welds.
Here an example what the exposed tang on that Damascus knife will be like.
Here an example what the exposed tang on that Damascus knife will be like.
Also a little detail on my knives is I add Cerakote to the file work when I finish the blade. Here is black but the Bowsite knife this year will have orange Cerakote added into to file work
Also a little detail on my knives is I add Cerakote to the file work when I finish the blade. Here is black but the Bowsite knife this year will have orange Cerakote added into to file work
This is my standard slim
This is my standard slim
Sito,
Thank you glad he likes it. That knife you pointed out is called my slim. I do quite a few but this one is a stainless Damascus made of RWL34 and PMC27 steel and will have an exposed tang. This is the first time testing that brand of stainless Damascus and is made by Damasteel
From: RJ Hunt
10-Jan-25
Thank you schmitty. I Will post it up for grabs when done as have had a couple requests for it.
From: RJ Hunt
10-Jan-25
Fast flight,
My favorite knife steels I like tend to favor high wear resistance over toughness as we as hunters deal with hide and hair more so than chopping. That said I like: 20cv (m390 same steel), Elmax, and Magnacut as my top few. These steels are very difficult to work at high hardness but the outcome and performance is well worth it. Those steels above with a good heat treat and fine geometry will do so well and is a pleasure to use in the field. They all have their personalities though and I have used and tested all of those on my elk hunts in the field. They are all great and if you heat treat them properly and take advantage of the technology of those super steels, cryo treat and run the 62HRC or more they will cut so very well. So many factory knives they skimp on heat treat, run them soft, in the 57-59 range and it leaves you wishing you had a better knife when you go to use. That’s the difference in my opinion is we as hunters when we pull out our knife it has a job to do, not just open an Amazon box, but get that animal taken apart, packed in bags and out of the field so it must perform. Sorry… rambling a bit just got home from the gym and a little low on blood sugar. ;-)
From: butcherboy
11-Jan-25
I sure would like to get my hands on one of your knives. Strange that I use multiple knives everyday at work and don’t have a good collection of knives to use out hunting. lol I better save up some money or sell some stuff so I can get one. I like a smaller fixed blade for field use.
From: Altitude Sickness
11-Jan-25
ButcherBoy, Niche knives are not cheap. But when others are removing and replacing disposable razor blades. Or re sharpening their knives. Yours is still very, very sharp. The edge retention is amazing.
A freinds son killed a nice bull and wanted it skinned for a mount. So when I started on the cape and cutting the top of the bulls neck. He had the typical mud and debris build up in his neck hair. So cutting through dirt, debris thick hide.
I caped, removed the hide and quartered, the elk and the knife could easily done another elk on the same edge. No Hyperbole
Now you don’t want to pry or chisel or chop with that blade. But sharpness and edge retention are second to none. Ditch the wasteful disposable blades. Life’s too short to use ugly disposable knives.
From: Mark Watkins
11-Jan-25
Amazing work Rob!!!
I learned a lot from your thread…thank you!
Mark
From: butcherboy
11-Jan-25
I haven’t used disposal blade knives in a long time. I gave them a try twice to see what all the hype was about and was not impressed. I’ve used some form of a fixed blade knive for a very long time. Usually one of my work knives but I have to make a sheath for them and they don’t hold an edge for very long without hitting them on a diamond or polished steel constantly. They are designed for cutting meat on a table and not for field work.
From: fastflight
11-Jan-25
What are the handle materials on the knife a few posts back where you talked about the cerakote? Looks incredible!!
From: RJ Hunt
11-Jan-25
Fast flight… thank you. That is a dyed box elder Burl with a Dino bone trustone split and white and black g10 accents.
From: SD
12-Jan-25
I had to look up "dino bone trustone"! Had no clue what it was. I'm also fascinated with you using mammoth molars. Are there any other fossils/ivorys or animal materials in general that you use? Very cool stuff!
From: RJ Hunt
12-Jan-25
Thanks SD and currently I only use fossil tusk and fossil mammoth molar currently. There is some pretty cool stuff available that they unearth and use.
From: RJ Hunt
12-Jan-25
Now that the knife is heat treated and ready to grind we will prepare the handle materials. This handle will have a carbon fiber front piece (bolster) hunter orange g10 accents with a glow spacer in between the orange accents. The tail of the knife will be a highly figured stabilized koa wood.
From: RJ Hunt
12-Jan-25
Here I cut the wood down to the size I need for the tail of the handle and used marine grade epoxy to lamenate the orange g10, black g10 and the glow strip to the wood. Once we have this little block made we can rip a set of small “matching” scales from it on the carbide bandsaw blade.
From: RJ Hunt
12-Jan-25
After cutting on the bandsaw we have to flatten them up su the glue line is minimal and not noticeable when sanded out on the knife
After cutting on the bandsaw we have to flatten them up su the glue line is minimal and not noticeable when sanded out on the knife
Here I have now ripped a set of scales that will perfectly match. We now have to cut/square up the carbon fiber portion
From: SD
12-Jan-25
Do you mind me asking how much $$,$$$ you have invested in your shop/tools?
From: RJ Hunt
12-Jan-25
SD… I couldn’t say exactly but you can imagine. I have two full grinders…. A disc grinder… two bandsaws…. Heat treated and furnace… fiber laser. That’s just a few things not to mention all the consumables including steel, specialty woods and ceramic belts. It ads up fast and if had to buy all at once it would not have been possible. This started as a hobby and as I sold a knife I would reninvenst the full amount so I was able to build a little at a time without incurring any debt.
From: RJ Hunt
12-Jan-25
We also cut the g10 liners at this point. We will glue those on the the bottom of the carbon fiber and wood to give strength and some added detail
We also cut the g10 liners at this point. We will glue those on the the bottom of the carbon fiber and wood to give strength and some added detail
I buy sheets of carbon fiber in bulk and cut/square up the sizes I need. This is 1/4” thick and will be thinned down a bit after we glue it all up
From: RJ Hunt
12-Jan-25
When I use epoxy I only use top grade marine epoxy. This is gflex and is hands down the best at bonding the materials I use. It sets up in 24 hours
When I use epoxy I only use top grade marine epoxy. This is gflex and is hands down the best at bonding the materials I use. It sets up in 24 hours
Here is a sneak peak of what the koa wood looks like.
Here is a sneak peak of what the koa wood looks like.
All the segments and layers are clamped up and will set up overnight.
All the segments and layers are clamped up and will set up overnight.
Here is the current layout so far
From: bowhunter24
12-Jan-25
Rob, I have a big grin going! This knife is going to be awesome!
From: Altitude Sickness
12-Jan-25
Let’s start a silent auction :>))
From: RJ Hunt
12-Jan-25
Thank you guys. When this epoxy sets up will show you the results.
From: Knifeman
12-Jan-25
Do you have the pin holes drilled or are you gluing one side at a time?
From: RJ Hunt
12-Jan-25
Knife man,
The pin holes are not drilled yet. I will finish the scale sets then spot glue them together as one then fit to the knife and drop the pin holes. Then I break them apart and put on the knife. Will show the process when I get there too
From: drycreek
12-Jan-25
Catching up on this thread is almost as good as getting one built ! Almost. Once y’all actually get to hold one of Rob’s knives, you’ll wonder why it took you so long !
From: RJ Hunt
12-Jan-25
Thanks Don
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-25
I use the best spray gun I could find as makes a big difference in the quality of the application. Here I use an LPH80 gun
I use the best spray gun I could find as makes a big difference in the quality of the application. Here I use an LPH80 gun
The knife needs to be prepped for Cerakote. Here I am blasting with 100 grit aluminum oxide to etched the hardened surface to give the Cerakote something to grab
The knife needs to be prepped for Cerakote. Here I am blasting with 100 grit aluminum oxide to etched the hardened surface to give the Cerakote something to grab
A quick “spritz” and into the oven for 2 hours at 250f
A quick “spritz” and into the oven for 2 hours at 250f
Ok. Scales are glued up and ready to trim. In the mean time we need to add the Cerakote accents to the Filipe work we did earlier on the spine of the knife. We will use 128 Hunter orange for that
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-25
While the Cerakote is curing in the oven let’s take these handles we made up and trim off any excess and line everything up to fit onto the knife
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-25
While the Cerakote is curing in the oven let’s take these handles we made up and trim off any excess and line everything up to fit onto the knife
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-25
Here you can see the fine orange accent liner we put under the wood and carbon fiber
Here you can see the fine orange accent liner we put under the wood and carbon fiber
And here you can see the glow spacer we put in for those who like to set their knife down in the dark… yeah… I could be guilty of that.
And here you can see the glow spacer we put in for those who like to set their knife down in the dark… yeah… I could be guilty of that.
Now the handle scales are lined up, spot glued together and square. We will leave them like this until we get the knife blade ground and the tang tapered. No holes have been drilled yet.
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-25
Now we are prepping to grind the bevels and tang of the knife. First we must check and make sure is perfectly flat. If there are any warps from heat treat I hammer with a carbide hammer to remove any warps.
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-25
Here you can see the carbide ball in the face of the hammer
From: APauls
13-Jan-25
This is awesome. Thanks for sharing!!
From: Marty
13-Jan-25
I really enjoy following this every time!
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-25
Centerline scribed
Centerline scribed
I wet grind the bevels to keep the blade and edge cool and careful not to ruin the heat treatment of the knife. Here you can see my water mister spraying water as I grind
I wet grind the bevels to keep the blade and edge cool and careful not to ruin the heat treatment of the knife. Here you can see my water mister spraying water as I grind
Now to the grinder. We will be grinding the bevels on this knife. I scribe a new centerline to grind to and a line along the side of the blade. The key is to grind between the lines to create a knife.
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-25
Beveles are now ground and next we will hollow grind out the tang and taper it to reduce weight and give it a better look.
From: Knifeman
13-Jan-25
curious what are your thoughts on grinding the tang after heat treat. i do them before, just how i learned. I wonder if there is less chance of warping doing it your way.
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-25
I do all my grinding post heat treat with the exception of shallow hardening steels (w2, 1095 etc) as no matter what I do I get some movement with the steel. If I have not ground out the bevels or the tang I have options. I can grind away the warps or take them out with a hammer. For me it’s all about consistently and works for me and my process. Many grind before heat treat and make superb blades… I just prefer post heat treat grinding.
From: Knifeman
13-Jan-25
Thanks, love the thread. The patience for all the pics , writing and posting is too much for me, I know thats a bunch of work. Kudos.
From: RJ Hunt
13-Jan-25
Thanks brother. I figure I can do once per year or so and show everyone what I do and what goes into making something by hand. I think the appreciation for something handmade is coming back full swing. Also… I don’t do many hunt write ups so figure this is my way of contributing something positive to Bowsite.
From: Knifeman
13-Jan-25
Glad it is coming back. Its hard to convey the work it is to make a quality knife, you do a great job. Sometimes I just take pics of sanding belts and paper to show folks the drudgery of sanding lol.
From: Knifeman
13-Jan-25
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
Now town to hollow and taper the tang. Our goal is to remove most of the material from the tail of the knife. Currently is about 0.105” thick. I would like to get it down to 0.020”
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
We will set up the grinder and hollow grind on the 2” wheel
From: ScarFinga
14-Jan-25
I want to add something, I have know Rob for several years now and he will not sell a knife that he feels isn't as perfect as he can make them! He is truly an artisan and a perfectionist! Great thread brother, it amazes me how you do this every single day and you just keep getting better, if that's possible!
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
Ok that’s better… let’s get to work
Ok that’s better… let’s get to work
Thanks mark!
Ok… is 20 degrees this am so first we need to start a fire in the old wood stove
From: BOWNBIRDHNTR
14-Jan-25
Mark (Scar) "introduced" me to Rob. I think I have bought 6 knives and know I'm buying two more to mark special occasions for myself and my son. I was just contemplating who I should blame for my knife purchases and I've decided to blame Pat, if it wasn't for Bowsite I wouldn't have these knives nor many of the friendships I've made over the years! Thanks Pat....I think lol.
BTW, -2 degrees here this morning. I just lit the fire in my woodstove as well!!!
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
Hollow grinding the tang of the knife
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
A little trigonometry and we have a spacer size for our surface grinder to create the taper on the tang
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
Here you can see the full taper from 0.105” down to about 0.011” this will balance the knife well and remove any in needed steel for you to carry on your back or belt.
Here you can see the full taper from 0.105” down to about 0.011” this will balance the knife well and remove any in needed steel for you to carry on your back or belt.
With the surface grinder adjusted we will now remove the steel from the back end of the knife.
From: buckeye
14-Jan-25
I want a water cooled platen! Love your shop. I have a wood burning stove in mine as well but a block building with no insulation. It takes awhile for it to be tolerable in there in this weather.
From: WhattheFOC
14-Jan-25
When I started following this thread, I had no idea there would be math ….
From: SD
14-Jan-25
Not sure I'd even try that bevel without a sine plate! Lots of knowledge and LOTS of skill in this thread! You're doing a great job!
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
Thanks guys! Yes the wood stove is nice. I wouldn’t be able to work on my shop if wasn’t heated. We get some real cold winters here. The water cooled platen helps a bit and keeps things cool. Most weeks will grind bevels for 8 hours at a time and really help keep the temps manageable
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
Hand sanding.
Hand sanding.
Ok…. Here is where the rubber hits the road. All the machine marks and final shaping and finish will all be done by hand. We will start out with two different coarse sand papers, a 180 aluminum oxide and a 240 silicon carbide. Hand sanding a steel like m390 to a decent finish can take a some work as it is very wear resistant.
From: bowhunter24
14-Jan-25
Didn't care for math much in school but when I became a machinist trigonometry made sense! Thanks again!
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
Bowhunter24… I didn’t get it til I land surveyed for a year out of school.
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
All the grinder marks have now been removed to we will rough for f the handle scales. In the second picture you can now see the orange Cerakote accents left in the file work
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
Holes drilled and transferred the knife pattern onto the scales with blue painters tape
Holes drilled and transferred the knife pattern onto the scales with blue painters tape
Grinding scales close to size
Grinding scales close to size
Clamping the pair of handle scales we made up so we can drill the pin holes and rough out fitment of the handles
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
Here you can see the taper of the tang
Here you can see the taper of the tang
The handles are spot glued together so can work them as one unit then will separate them when the fronts are finished
From: fastflight
14-Jan-25
Amazing work!
From: RJ Hunt
14-Jan-25
Buckeye, I got my water cooled platen from Nathan at Carouthers performance. He machines them. Not sure if he makes them anymore.
From: drycreek
14-Jan-25
Just checking in !
From: SD
15-Jan-25
I'm being selfish here... but any chance you would do this more than once a year?
From: RJ Hunt
15-Jan-25
SD… hard to say. Maybe will do when I come out with a new model or so and thanks… makes me happy to hear you guys like the thread as I am happy to share.
