Good 150gr expandable head?
Equipment
I’m heading to Greenland after muskox and caribou. I needed to legally shoot a muskox with 525 gr and fixed heads. Ended up with a 150gr iron will broad head.
I only want to take 1 bow. Thinking it would be nice to have an expandable head for caribou since it could be long distance shooting
I can’t seem to find any expandable heads at 150gr except xbow heads
I’m just getting my bow back from the shop. Figured I’d put some 125 gr field points on to see if it makes a difference
I could always shoot the iron will head but I like the idea of a larger cutting area and less wind resistance with expandable
Thoughts?
My Iron Will 125V and 125W both shoot very accurate out to 50 yards. That’s as far as I practice. I would not hesitate a bit to use them on caribou or musk ox.
I went to Greenland in September. Had to change my setup to get over that 525 rule. Killed both a muskox and a caribou with a 125 grain Slick Trick fixed head. Caribou was 50 yards
I'd try to use the same head for both if you can. One less variable to deal with.
Sevr Robusto is a 150 gr 2” 2 blade. Sevr is not my favorite design but lots of people love them. Swhacker makes a huge cut 150 gr 2 blade. A lot of people make “crossbow” heads. I know on heads like rage you can just switch out the expander cups to the vertical bow version.
Beachtree & Coondog know what they speak. +1
I would consider tuning my bow for long distance while using the IW's. All of the 150 mechs are as you said for crossbows. You may have a penetration issue at long distance. Just my thoughts.
Could always fletch some arrows different so they are visibly noticeable at a glance so you don’t mix them up with your musk ox arrows, and add more weight up front on those with a weighted insert so you have all the options in the world with 100gr mechs.
Use a heavier insert and then take your pick from the larger group of lighter expandable heads.
I was gonna suggest Evolution's as well. Used their WT Fury to completely sever the backbone of a doe this past fall. Really impressed with that head.
When I went to Greenland, I just dropped a few Q-Tips inside the arrow to make it to the legal weight limit. Was much easier that changing my setup all around.
Awesome ideas to help me guys. I really don’t like the idea of xbow heads but adding extra weight to some arrows and the Hyde seems to be worth chasing down
I pick up my bow today from shop. First thing is see how those iron will fly at long distance and I want to see how the arrow flies and shoots with 150 vs 125 gr field point
My 150 grain fixed shot a little low past 50. I put some 160 fields points and it was money.
You could try brass inserts. They come in different weights. That way you can use average weight broadheads +/- 25 grains or so to get what you want.
Even way easier than a heavier inserts is using the 25 gr external collar thing. Iron will sells them and you just slip it over the shaft.
You can shoot a 125gr head with the 25 gr collar and be good to go!
Just need to make sure you have at least 1” clearance on your rest
Here is the picture of what I’m talking about . They just slip over easy, and removable. That is if they make they the size of your shaft. Work great on axis arrows
I second Iceman. I also shot both animals with 125 grain Slicktrick. Better one broadhead that works and flies the same. Less posible problems.
On a side note NOBODY will weigh your arrows unless you want to show off to your outfitter how much they weigh ;
Can you add backweights to your inserts?
Charlie speaks with great wisdom.. Hyde
Perfect paper test with field points.
Iron will shoot 8” left at 20 yards. Ugh.
Looks like shooting iron will and expandable heads are a long shot. Iron will heads kick badly. I’m gonna try tuning my bow to them and see what happens
Gonna try my slick tricks but that puts me under 525gr
If your IW heads are hitting 8” off you either have an untuned bow or a weak shaft due to adding the extra weight. What is your setup? DL, DW, spine, arrow length, etc?
Paper tuning is different than beoadhead tuning. Paper tuning is your starting point. Then you need to tune with broadheads. It’s not difficult.
You could put a 50 grain Gold Tip Fact weight behind the insert and shoot a 100 grain expandable or put a 25 grain Gold Tip Fact weight behind the insert and shoot a 125 grain expandable.
Slick trick vipers.. but half to ask what different in crossbow heads.
Iron Wills will not be the source of an accuracy issue I can guarantee you that.
But yeah for adding weight go brass inserts and/or arrow outserts
Call me crazy, but why would you complicate your life with two different loads? Just dial the one and commit.
Corax, there’s nothing complicated about shooting different broadheads. Know how to tune and you can shoot anything. I had four different broadheads in my quiver for deer season.
Hopefully you are shooting iron standards- I can verify in a tuned bow out to 80yds they are spot on with field points.
The IW Wides have been an issue though for me so I stopped shooting them.
Once again I can’t imagine anyone weighing your arrows. I have been to Greenland no issues.
I do highly recommend the IW on muskox. I also shot my caribou with an expandable. Both hit same POI
70lb Matthew veritix. 29” draw. 300 spiked arrows.
My bow tuner said to move my rear to left slowly and see if the kick leaves
I shot some 150 gr Grim reaper expandables at Australian game. The results were impressive.
Dino - the only grim reaper expandable heads I can find are 125gr max. 150gr xbow?
Am I missing something?
My bow is back in shop. Had to move rest a lot to get iron will and field points to hit the same. My bow tuner says something is wrong
Question for you iron will guys. Do you practice with the heads then sharpen them to hunt? They seem to loosen when I practice
JG…that’s right. They are considered an x bow head, however , my archery tech dude, switched out the heavier retention springs with some springs from a 100 gr Grim Reaper. Worked awesome and super deadly!!!
JG, only you can tune your bow. Your pro shop can dial in the cam timing and center your rest to spec…..but they cannot duplicate the way you hold and shoot your bow. And if they tell you different….stop going there.
You have to be the one to paper tune it with them there. You shoot. Not them. You have to be the one to walk back tune for broadheads. They can assist you and make the adjustments based on your results.
Maybe I missed something in translation, but it appears you are giving them your bow and asking them to tune it for you…..
I’ve never had an Iron Will “loosen” when using them to practice nor when I’ve shot animals and they’ve buried in the dirt. I shoot my Iron Wills, multiple mechanicals, and field points in groups out to 120 yards. Same point of impact, no issues. Like I stated above, paper tune is a starting point (while maintaining center shot as close as possible… this means shim or drive cams and/or move nocking point up or down) then you need to broadhead tune at multiple distances by micro adjusting your rest if necessary. Sometimes all it takes is one click left or right and you’re dead on.
I stuffed weed eater line in a few arrows, got them much heavier than 525, and killed this bull to save my friends life cause it was his birthday, with a 100gr expandable. Pretty simple. Sure it would work the same with any decent fixed head once your bow is tuned.
Yah I have my guy tune my bow. I’ve tried and have never been able to do it
It’s worked for me for years
I think he’s adding a washer to my cams
The set screw used to hold the iron will blade looses on me when I shoot the broad head. Then the head wobbles.
I really like the punch of the 525gr arrow. I’ll figure it out.
I always liked shooting my fixed broad heads then change blades or sharpen before hunting. That’s not gonna work with iron will unless I figure out this set screw issue.
If they don't shoot the same but fly ok. Just set up another sight. I use to do it when I shoot 3-d . Had a target sight single pin adjustable . Then a 5 pin fixed for hunting. I used 300 gr arrows for 3d and 535 gr for hunting. And just swapped them out pre set.
Having your bow tuned by the shop is key. A properly tuned bow should shoot your IW's as well as field points. Thats my experience.
Love it when those fixed and mechanicals and field points all are hitting same point of Impact at 120.
That’s a bad ass picture, Nick!
Bou, me thinks at 120, there’s a flight difference…..
If moving your rest does not bring your field points and broadheads together you may have to swap out the tophats to get your cams lined up correctly. I've always been able to get field points and broadheads to group together but when I first bought my Mathew's Halon in 2016 I was pulling my hair out and nothing worked. I did some research and discovered top hat tuning. I bought a top hat kit followed the instructions that I found on YouTube and switched them around. Now my G5 striker fixed blade broadheads group with my field points out to 100 yards.
Got it done. They swapped out a fitting in the cams
Dead on field points and iron will out to 60 yards
Other great news. I swapped my 150gr field point for 125gr. Don’t notice a significant difference in arrow accuracy. This means I can shoot 125 gr expandable and 150gr iron will
I love the 525gr arrow. So hard hitting. I think this is gonna become my go to set up and let my spare bow at 425gr
Thanks for your help guys.
Sevr Robusto, I wouldn’t fret over the fact that it says it’s for crossbows it will perform the same as any other Sevr..
Or as others have suggested add weight to insert with a Gold tip fact weight that weighs 50 grs inserted from the nock end of the arrow with their long allen wrench then shoot any 100 gr head available
Or as others have suggested add weight to insert with a Gold tip fact weight that weighs 50 grs inserted from the nock end of the arrow with their long allen wrench then shoot any 100 gr head available
Vortex has a new 170 grain PLR. "PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE" They aren't on the website yet but will be in about a week. All steel design 1.25" Cutting diameter. the bottom set screw can be left intact which locks the blade, or it can be removed and replaced with a silicone sheer pin which then allows the blade to pivot to avoid hard bone and to follow the path of least resistance.
