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Bow poundage adjustment ?

I have a Bear Vapor 300 compound bow. The bow is supposed to draw a maximum of 60 pounds. Draw length is 29 1/2".

Old age and time now require that I shoot a lower poundage. How far "down" can i adjust this bow and still shoot it safely and effectively.

As an example, how many turns can I back off the limb bolts before I risk the bolts coming out of the limb pocket ? The bow is set at 50 pounds currently - I don't know how many turns that is off of the maximum draw weight.

I'd like to get to 45# which I think I can handle. Comments or thought please.

Thanks in advance.

Most bows have a recommended 10 pound range. Since you are already at 50 pounds, you have done all you can with the limb bolts. You might squeeze out another pound or two by messing with the string and cable twists, but that will also change the bow's draw length.

Might be time for a new bow?

I would suggest one of Parker's EZ draw bows (new or used). You might be able to pull 55# with that cam.

I agree with the ten pound rule of thumb. That said, not all bows perform to peak specifications, especially bows with some age.

Tighten both limb bolts down all the way...and then back off 1/2 turn each. Put your bow on a scale and see what it is actually pulling at max weight. Then, back off ten pounds for the minimum.

Back in the round-wheel days, we used to back them off until they started to rattle a little bit, then tighten them back up one turn and shoot them with no problems. This was usually well past the manufacturers specs.

This was done frequently back when good bows were harder to find in the shorter draw weights and draw lengths needed by women or teens who wanted to join us in shooting.

We also shortened the strings, which reduced the draw weight and shortened the draw length.

I still have an old PSE round-wheel that my 6'5" neighbor bought new with a 32" draw and 72# peak, that we brought down to fit me at 29" draw by shortening the string, and it will just reach 57# now with the limb bolts all the way tightened in. Could probably shoot it down to 35# or so safely.

Not sure how the newer cam bows would be affected by the same measures.

Best way I can think of to find out would be to press the bow and remove the string, then back the limb bolts out until they are free of the threads, and count the turns needed to tighten them down all the way to the bottomed out (maximum draw weight) position. That way you'll know exactly how many turns of threads you still have in each screw when you have reassembled the bow, with string again in place, as you again loosen the screws from the fully tightened down position. Don't forget to allow for the threads that you want to leave in the nut---I'd recommend at least eight full turns on each bolt.

I suspect that you'll find the threads long enough to back the poundage down to bring the draw weight down to your needs, and that the bow will shoot just fine in that condition, but I don't KNOW that to be a fact, and it would be irresponsible for me to advise you to try to shoot it that way without first finding out for sure, and foolish of you to believe me if I did suggest it.

I will say that IF the threads are there to allow further reduction in draw weight, you should be safe in going back to your current 50# setting and reducing it about two turns at a time, keeping the number of turns even on both limbs, until the bow is either down to your desired weight or you start to hear a rattle or looseness at the shot (and if you do, retighten the bolts until the rattle or looseness disappears).

As pointed out above, most bows do shoot at their best efficiency when at or near their maximum draw weight. But the difference in efficiency will not be noticable in shooting and will not be an important factor. It will cost you a very few feet per second in speed, but nothing you'll notice without chronographing it.

I think it's very likely that a little tweaking will get you some more years of shooting pleasure out of your Bear without the expense of trading it in on a later model.

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