What do you have and why do you like it?
Camofire had some IQ on sale.
The more I look into a new sight the more I am tossed up with doing a 7 pin or an adjustable
A hybrid fixed/adjustable sight can somewhat reduce those antics, but at the shot I don't really care if an animal is 33 or 37 yards. It's probably dead with either my 30 or 40 and definitely dead halfway in the middle.
So many things can happen leading up to a shot that dialing a pin to the gnat's rump isn't worth the amount of time and movement it takes to do so IMO.
I have been able to get inside 60 yards on plenty of animals, so taking a risky shot is not for me.
Good luck!
Probably shouldn't shoot beyond 50 really...
I agree that 3d shoot distances here in NM get pretty rediculous, and that is why I said that using a 7 pin for 3d is good, but I don't recommend taking any shot pat 60 or so on an elk especially.
Alot of people always say that they have killed an elk at really long range, but ultimately they got really lucky.
Good luck!
I’ve got CBE tek hunter xl pro on my bows but there are a couple of things I don’t like. The MBG Ascent Verdict with a dovetail mount is my next sight.
The cheaper sights are enticing but some don’t have third axis adjustment which is crucial. Some also have a lot of flex in the joint between aperture and mounting bar or just in the mounting bar itself. The long term durability and accuracy of these wouldn’t be worth the money saved.
Or, maybe you do and can’t figure out why you’re punching guts or shoulders when you thought you aimed right where you should have.
Chances are, if you put your bow in a vice, and point it up or down at a 45 degree angle and then plumb the bow, your sight will not be level. Just a little off on the level can be 6 “ at 30 yards and even more the farther you go. That’s with the bow in a vice under controlled conditions. Add in the torque you induce while gripping the bow, uneven, steep or sloped terrain, a steep uphill or down hill shot and adrenaline, third axis becomes a major issue.
15 to 20 feet in a tree, 20-25 yards or less, reasonably flat ground it will not be enough to matter.
My apologies, I didn’t know we were talking about tree stands and food plots.
On the 3rd axis, I really can't say I have had any issues with shooting up or down the hills, the 3d shoot at the Cloudcroft ski area had some crazy steep shots out to 60/80 yds, some of those steep uphill shots I had a hard time trying to keep good form, LOL I don't have a level on my sight, it fell off 8 to 10 years ago. I was just floating a pin 2' over the target so I couldn't tell if the 1st, 2nd or 3rd axis was messing with me. Just for the record, most of my kills fall in sight of me (mostly luck I imagine) so if 1st, 2nd or 3rd axis helps me any then that's just icing on the cake.
I can see where the Retina Lock sight that Smarba was talking about could keep a check on your form at any angle, just line it up! just not sure if I want to go that route because that would mean going to a 7 pin.
I agree with the prices of sights, the sticker shock makes me twitch.. then I reflect on when I thought my cobra double bar pin sight was awesome.
Shaft..... based on your explanation it doesn't sound like you even know what the 3rd axis is for. If food plots tickle your pickle, have at it... but its not my cup of tea. Some guys are just too cool for their own good. Shoot straight pal.
Line of sight distance vs. true horizontal distance will cause more miss problems than not. Canting your bow, or rotating the riser, will cause poor shot placement (as in a front leg or gut shot) more than anything else.
A sight system with close manufactured tolernaces in the x and y axis will do more good than loose tolerances and adding a z axis adjustment.
Suppose I'll just continue to do what I do while having successful results.
Your combination of bow/sight MIGHT be plumb and perfect w/out 3rd axis.
I agree 20 yards from a treestand 3rd axis and even horizontal/line of sight distance may not make enough difference to notice much.
But 50 yards at 45-degree downhill that 3rd axis (and horizontal distance, and bubble level) are going to be critical.
IQ makes 3-4-7 pin sights BTW.
smarba's Link
I suggest understanding what 3rd axis adjustment is and why it is necessary. I've attached one link, a web search will turn up a plethora.
To many people look at prices of sights before quality and features. I get people want simplicity but you don't want to cheat yourself by the same token.
No matter what you use just make sure you are proficient with it. And I don't mean practice 1 month before the season and shoot broad heads more 1 month plus before your hunt.
MBG is probably the biggest seller at the shop form 1 pin to 5pins. That said Rocky Mountain is good and Black Mountain all on the more affordable side but still good a product.
The upper end are CBE Tek Hybrid Pro 1 - pin sliders, Axcel &Spot Hogg all the same.
Currently I run a double pin. Single pin style with 2 fiber dots in the single pin allows the sight picture of a single pin but the 2nd fiber as a reference in an event that you dial to shoot and you have an animal move. I use the gap between the fibers for off yardages.
So I have a home of 30. 40 is the gap shot and 50 is the 2nd pin. If I really need 50 high is 60. Very clean sight picture for myself and as much as I shoot I am very accurate with this style. It is not for everyone but if you shoot enough you may like it more than 5 pins covering the target.
5 & 7 pin are great there can just be a lot of clutter to some, some people don't have the vision for that as well. Its really just preference. I can tell you more and more 7 pins become obsolete. Used to be everywhere but majority of manufactures don't even make them. 7 pin Spot Hogg Hogg It used to be on every bow in NM, including mine and now they don't even build them.
If anyone needs further help let me know. I shoot for some manufactures and a shop and have more sights and bows than a man deserves but I am lucky for that I guess. I can show people differences with out spending money is what I am saying.
OCHO
Thanks for the well wishes though.
Form won't correct a mis aligned bubble.
"A sight system with close manufactured tolernaces in the x and y axis will do more good than loose tolerances and adding a z axis adjustment."
If the sight is machined to a true x and y (90 and 270, 0 and 180), there is little needed for anything in between.
A bubble only matters when rotating your wrist. It has nothing to do with up and down when shooting, aka, proper form.
The bubble on a bow sight has only one purpose, to tell you when the sight bar/pin stack is vertical. If the bubble is mis aligned, front to back from the archer (looking down on the pins from above), the bubble will "run" when the sight is raised or lowered and the archer will can't the bow to correct. Flat ground it doesn't matter, uphill/downhill it matters. If the sight is made square, and the bubble is mounted square to the sight, as some mfg's claim to do, they see no reason to add a 3rd axis. That argument has merit unless you believe in the "bow torque at full draw" theory.
It didn't matter last year in Valle Vidal for the downhill shot, the year before in Utah uphill, and Utah again downhill the year before that. I expect it won't matter next time either. Once you learn bad habits you learn to cope and adjust maybe?
Misses in the past (and future I'm sure) are because I have just guessed the distance wrong.
I get it the importance of making sure your bow and sight housing are all plumb to start. After that, I really don't care...
The housing is nice, little bigger than I like but good size, has very very bright pins but they only come in .19 and pins are a little thick but its going to be very reliable.
The slide actually runs at slight curve as it supposed to match the shape of your eye at longer distances (never seen another sight with this).
Cons: * Some people may not like .19 * Will not get a ton of travel on it... Depending on speeds I would say most will get 80 - 100 out of the slider. * I was unable to get enough windage out of the travel so had to bolt the housing on the other side of where its meant to be (no big deal)
You can get them on AT often for like $80...
Quick easy check for level placement. Put your sight on a plumb board, like a door frame, tilt your sight up and down about +/-45*. The bubble will tell the tail, assuming your riser is plumb at full draw. I’ve done this with 2 different inexpensive loose sights laying around and both are fine. If you’re worried about this “issue” hang onto your receipts.
Whatever you used you need to really learn it! This goes for your bow and sight. You guys would be shocked what type of people come into the archery shop and what hunts they have.... It used to be a small number of people its not 50/50.
How much to sight my bow in for me? Do all my arrows need to be the same length? Where is 16A and is it good? My broad heads don't even hit the target and I leave tomorrow can you fix it? We don't have brand X arrows. Oh? well I will take whatever is close. Can you just get my bow to hit the paper cause I can't pull it back and I will get it at camp!
One of my favorites: I was a world champion shooter and want to get back into shooting and start winning again!
Sweet! Are you right or left handed?
I don't know? Hmmm - you sure you were a world champion?!?!
Just some examples.
I appreciate the input from everyone, I've came to the conclusion that I won't be putting a new sight on my bow until after my Jan hunt. With all the bird hunting and holiday stuff I just don't have enough time to get it dialed in the way I would be comfortable or at least as comfortable as I am now with my current set up. When I do get a sight I will definitely set it up so the 3 axis's are covered, if a sight has the ability why not! IMO no matter what sight you have, or lack of adjustability, you are only as good as you can shoot, just go to any bow shoot and you will see dudes with all the latest equipment and guys like me with basic stuff and the scores are above and below each other, it's not so much what you have, it's how good a shooter are you! LOL there are some who can shoot lights out with their high tech stuff but I feel it is the shooter who dictates that and the gear only enhances their ability.
I agree. Good form and follow through on a shot matters more than anything else. Your bow could be perfectly plumb and sight pins exactly level for a perfect 90 degree perpendicular intersection with the riser and still shoot like crap if you have terrible form and an inconsistent anchor point.
