Switching to fixed broadheads?
Massachusetts
So after the past two days, I have been thinking about switching to my fixed broadheads. I recall some past threads about fixed vs mechanical and think I may switch over for the rest of the season.
Been hunting with grim reaper whitetail specials 100 gr 2” cut, but have read the penetration power of fixed can be better. I also have two fixed and two mechanical in my quiver, but tend to always knock the mechanical when I get setup.
Just want to see what you all prefer.
To add, I have had two arrows in two seasons break off, both with the mechanical on.
Also my bow is set to 70 lbs, and arrows are 400’s I just recently pumped my lbs up to full before the season. So I have to check the charts for the spine and adjust my arrows to account for the increased lbs.
I know I should probably hit them in the bread box vs the scapula, but...
Broadhead has nothing to do with the fact your arrows are breaking off. Shot placement and type of arrow do.
Mechanicals do use more energy to open but if you are truly set at the max of your 70 lb limbs you should have no issue with that. What poundage are you pulling. I have 70 lb limbs but am pulling 63 lbs
Also what type of arrow are you shooting. A cheaper arrow will break off quicker than a quality arrow. All these things can factor into this. I am no expert there are guys on here way more knowledgeable than I am, but thise are a couple good questions to start with
400 is probably too weak for 70. What is your arrow length? Bow model (IBO)?
I shoot Easton axis arrows with 100 grain nap spitfire mechanical at 60 lbs and have very good luck with great blood trails and pass thrus. If you are contemplating making a switch I would do it next year when you have more time to experiment. Once I'm dialed for the season I don't change a thing.
Shot plscement is key i shoot 2 blade rage an in last 2 years taken 4 deer 3 were pass threws one arrow i never found went threw deer an into the ground i shoot 60 lbs the one arrow fr ok m opening day i hit high on the front shoulder went in 6-8 in like others switching broad heads isnt the issue its shot placement an taking only broadside an slightly quartering away shots which gives u a larger window for hitting vitals
I've mentioned this before, but I made the switch this year from a fairly light arrow with a large mechanical, to a real heavy quality arrow and a high quality single bevel head, after experiencing multiple issues while turkey hunting with my previous arrow/broadhead combo.
I'm now shooting 350 spine carbon express pile drivers, with 175 grain grizzly stick single bevel, 564 grains total and nearly 20% foc and pulling 60lbs. I shot a bear that was slightly quartering to me, it went through the thickest part of his scapula and buried in the ground behind him. And it didn't just go through the scapula, it destroyed it, like crushed into pieces. My old arrow/broadhead combo would have certainly been stopped by the scapula and I would not have recovered the animal, but instead he died within sight.
Without knowing all the details of your bow, I'd say go with a stiffer spine and or possibly better arrow. I went with a 340 spine from 400 on my easton full metal jackets 5mm and the marginal speed you lose you make up for in KE, which as hunters is what were really after. I think also what's even more important than KE is accuracy, and making big changes at this point in the season could prove to be disastrous. A lot of work can goes in to tuning a fixed, and so much of what we do is muscle memory. I'd say if you really want to make the switch, do it post season. Keep in mind to that a stiffer spine means more weight, which also might mean adjusting your sight a bit, but probably the best solution. I shoot a Bear Arena 34 pulling 70, Easton full metal jacket 340 5mm's, and grimm reaper whitetail special broadheads, and so far knock on wood I've had unbelievable penetration and wound channels. I will add on a personal level that I really have been there. After wounding that buck last year I bought a new bow , sight, rest, and arrows, none of it being truly necessary. Just keep practicing and be ready for the next opportunity and you'll be fine. Good luck buddy!
Dont ask me, I shoot a real bow. No training wheels here. Lol. JK
IMHO...if you are keeping your shots say 35 and under, nothing beats a heavy arrow with a cut in contact fixed blade. I've sent cx terminator shafts with 300 grains up front with a wensel woodsman thru shoulder blade ridge, both lungs, liver and out the other side out of a 54# recurve.
We all know any bhead/arrow/bow can go thru a whitetail vitals perfectly broad side. I want to have confidence that if a deer jumps the string, steps, something, I have the momentum and cutting power to get the job done on unintended marginal hits. My $0.02
Hick, I'm a total convert to that way of thinking, although I do use training wheels;) The arrow might be moving slower, but it's using that energy far more efficiently, especially on marginal/bone hits.
Im switching back ( next year ) to fixed blades. Shot a deer in IL last week with a Grim Reaper and the blades did not open, still got the deer. First time in 4 or 5 deer with a Grim Reaper it happened but it was enough for me. Tune your bow and fixed blade should fly fine and there is no issues to worry about. Better penetration is always a good thing.
Carpe, 400's do sound light for 70#. Unless you have a real short draw length. Most folks I know shooting close to 70 are 340 or stiffer.
I shoot both. Bow's tuned and things fly great. If I use shoot through mesh in the blind then I use the fixed blades.
I think this ultimately is a Ford v Chevy thing (both suck, Toyota's rule... :) - JUST messing with my Ford and Chevy driving friends).
If you mess up and hit back, you will be happy to have a big giant mech on the end of your arrow.
If you mess up and hit forward, you will be happy to have a heavy, high momentum, deep penetrating head like Hick and Joe were talking about.
If you go over the spine, it's going to be a bummer with either.
If you hit the spine and have adequate energy to be shooting mech's in the first place the deer drops on the spot, regardless of head type.
Ive gone back and forth, but really love big mech's with a LOT of energy.
My theory being if you mess up, you have more gut to hit than shoulder blade. In this discussion guys have put good arguments for the other direction to me. Hence my belief, this is a Ford v Chevy discussion where no one really "wins". Just comes down to your set up and what you are confident in.
If I shot low energy I'd shoot a heavy arrow with a single bevel or at least a COC head.
But shooting over 90ft/lb of KE... Happy as a clam with mechs.
I did check out the chart, when i turned my lbs up I bumped into the 340 range. Next trip to Cabela’s I’ll check out stiffer arrows.
Training wheels? Every once in a while I like to jump off my Harley and take my uncles old hondamatic for a spin, still a little embarrassed cruising down the street on it though! ;-) Kidding Hick, trad is something I respect and look forward to getting into eventually, Fred Bear is my hero. Chase man, that sucks, glad you made the recovery though. I think the fixed versus mechanical argument will go on as long as bow hunting does, and nobody is wrong in the argument. Its really just about the reliability of a fixed, versus the cutting of a mechanical, a well placed shot is going to kill an animal either way. I will say that the above shot did not have an exit, and without the cut, I would guess at least a couple hundred yards more tracking in my future at a minimum, which means a couple hundred yards of suffering for that animal . Of course the argument could be made that a fixed provides an exit on that shot. That's an awful lot of bone to get through, and I think to much to ask of any broadhead. Either way I think what's most important is you change as little as possible during the season, accuracy is most important. If after the season you want to switch to fixed, you couldn't come to a better place for advice on tuning, these guys are awesome! Good luck guys, aim small miss small.
I shoot fixed blades - for the simple fact that there is less to go wrong. Granted I have never shot mechanicals and the 3 deer I've been lucky to shoot in my 4 year hunting career - all have been pass throughs and 30 yards was the farthest they have gone after being hit. Everyone shoots what they have confidence in - I've had clean kills with fixed blade broad heads - so I stick with them. A good shot with either is going to be lethal.
So I've gone from a 45" ATA bow with wheels using fingers to a 30" ATA bow, binary cams, and a back tension release. Just wanted to try mech's one year, especially with the newest bow. I remember when my friends said carbon arrows and releases were no good. I don't care what you use as long as you practice and know you can make a good, lethal shot.
No training wheels here either 125 grain old school thunder heads blows right threw them with proper shot placement and that is the key PROPER SHOT PLACEMENT
O, I'll weigh in too. I shoot a Bear Encounter at 55lbs, 80% let off, with 28inch pull back. I use 400 grain Goldtip arrows, the Ted Nugent black and white zebra ones. Luminok orange knocks and both mechanicsl and fixed broadheads. NAP Spitfire 125 grain mechanicals and Muzzy 3 blade 125 grain trocar fixed blades. I am sighted in for both and have pins at 20, 30, and 40 yards. I carry both in my quiver. In an open field, I use the mechanicals. If I'm on the ground and it's a little leafy, I always worry of a leaf getting in the path, the mechanical snagging a little and taking a wound shot in error. So I use the fixed broadhead, as the blades are out and it will cut a simple leaf like the paper you use to test sharpness before you start to use the head for hunting. I don't take risky shots anymore, but this is just my comfort zone. Any blade that is sharp and shot well placed will kill the deer, or any animal. Just practice more and use a picture of vitals on your block for practice if you don't have a fake deer target. Helps image the exact shot placement. Good luck.
