Snowshoe advice.
Wisconsin
Contributors to this thread:
So I need some snowshoes. What kind/style do I want for mostly woods walking? I also don't want to break the bank but don't want cheap junk either. Yeah I know buy once cry once;)
Depending on how heavy you are will dictate size. I bought a pair for 100 and they work great. Check Amazon
Saturday I was at Fleet Farm to check out snow shoes. I thought they were expensive at $120. EBay is a lot cheaper.
Go to REI or like places and find what you need and get the correct bindings for your boots and situation. A lot of them snowshoes on Amazon are for tree huggers that never get off a packed trail. Bindings are even more important than the shoe itself. A binding that works loose constantly or not right for your boots and I guarantee you’ll rip them off and throw them as far as you can in frustration.
Just dug mine out. These work just great for me. Ratchet strap bindings w/quick release. Also have cleats. I primarily use them in the forest. Got them at Cabelas a few years ago.
How much different do traditional snow shoes feel compared to modern ones?
Newer ones are much lighter and more compact. Bindings are so much better than the traditional snowshoes. I have both, but don't wear my old ones anymore. I should hang them on the wall.
Aluminum shoes are noisy and don't come close to working as well in deep snow as traditional shoes do, imho. Besides, they clash with my wool;)
The one thing I know, those aluminum ones do not work well for coyote hunting. They are very loud in the snow. I would stick with the wood ones if I were to hunt with them.
I have no problems trekking through the woods on the newer ones. I paid about $100 or so at cabelas a few years ago. Noise is not a issue and I would coyote hunt with them any day. Mine are similar to Hoots. Gotta wear a slim boot though, pac boots are too big
I have a pair of aluminum ones and the first time I used them they were so loud I took them off and went back to get my wood ones.
I have Tubbs for work, they are aluminum with a cinch style binding that has yet to work loose over the day. If you go with the traditional style, the best luck that I've had were with Iverson Alaskan style, with the neoprene webbing and neoprene "H" bindings. "H" bindings have been the best that I've used over the years. I have a personal set of shoes with the ratchet style bindings and hate those bindings.
Caution with the ebay ones. I bought a pair that looked similar to what fleet farm has but they where really really flimsy and the clasp broke in first quarter mile
Had a pair of bear paws (spruce) and a pair of Atlas, both served well but the spruce were quieter, depends on what you want to do. The shorter ones were easier on the hills and brush but the longer ones work better on the flats, just my opinion when chasing deer trails in Jackson/Monroe co.
Grunter I was going to say the same thing on the noise issue and have about the same kind. Have coyote hunted, deer hunted and Turkey hunted with them. They are useful only when the snow is soft. Just my opinion
Northbound thanks for the heads up. Also, it's been mentioned you are shopping for something that will support your weight. This is not your weight when you step out of the shower and jump on a scale. This is your weight with all your cloths and gear you have with you when you use the shoes.
Drop Tine's Link
I just ordered a new pair tonight. LL Bean has a good sale going and free shipping. These were the ones I ordered.
If your concerned with noise a small can of herculiner from Fleet will quiet them down when applied.
As others have said - pay attention to the bindings. But more than just how it grips the boot. The style of pivot method is important. I like the pin pivot vs the strap pivot. The rubber strap pivots tend to make the shoe spring up when picked up off the snow, which launches snow up onto your back and neck. The metal pivot style tends to not launch the snow like the rubber straps, they pivot more smoothly. The pins allow less twisting and more torque to be applied to the shoe, if side hilling, etc. See pic of metal pivot style above. These are a pic of my wife's Tubbs shoes. You see this most often on Tubbs shoes, a slightly different pin pivot design on others like MSR.
If you are going to go with wood, I have these bindings on my modified bear paw shoes. Very simple on and off. A commercial version of the old truck inner tube bindings that the old trappers used to make for themselves. They will crack after a few years or with heavy use. But I rarely have to adjust like the "H" style leather bindings for old shoes. These go by the name of "GV Bindings".
I should try them on my army surplus snowshoes.
You should check these out. The old trappers knew what they were doing. These go on and off quick and easy when checking traps so often. The old H style buckles freeze up, come loose, hands get cold dinking with them, drive ya nuts. The H style available at the time would not be so good for trapping.
I’ve tried the rubber style bindings, they are fine for straight line walking, I thought they were terrible walking through the woods. I can see how you would have to adjust leather “H” bindings, since they will stretch from new and when they get wet on warmer days, that’s why I said to get the neoprene bindings. Once they are set to your boots, all you have to do is unbuckle the top strap to take them off and buckle the strap to put them on.
For deep snow flotation and breaking new trails, these are hard to beat, the neoprene wears like iron.
The “H” bindings can handle a lot of torque from turning and uneven ground, once you have the toe and heal straps adjusted to your boots, you’ll only have to undo and do the strap that goes over the foot. Takes no more than a few seconds to get the snowshoes on and off.
>>>--arrow1-->'s Link
These are great. A lot of foresters use them up here. Never wear out.
Rut - how much snow do you regularly get? A lot of the metal/rubber ones are not built for 2+ feet of powdery snow.
On the other extreme, I inherited a 7' long pair of Russell Merritt (sp?) snowshoes that look good enough to be in a museum. This is the first winter in 10 here in MN that I have been able to use them.
smokey's Link
Don't waste your money on the "modern" snowshoes. I tried them for a year and never had them work as great as traditional shoes. I have used the modified bear paw and a cross country design. the MBP will give you the most float.
I have never tried traditional shoes and modern is all I know. Might have to take your word, smokey and get a pair. Thanks for the link. I am saving it.
I have both the bear paw traditional shoes and the new aluminum/vinyl and trust me there is a definite noise difference between the two. The modern shoes are twice as noisy as the traditional shoes. If you want snowshoes for hunting IMHO you are better off going traditional.
Hoot I have shoes very similar to yours. Scheels had them on sale in April, 2 years ago. I paid $60 which was marked down from $135. I beat you to it, My Alaskans are hanging on the Cabin wall.
As far as how much snow. Anywhere from 1 to 3 feet. I usually bull my way through anything less. Up here near Bloomer we have over 2 feet on the ground and I about died walking a 1/4 mile without snowshoes the other day. Maybe I should go without them and keep trying, it would either kill me or get me into awesome shape;)
One positive about the modern snowshoes is you can take them off, sling them in a pack and walk down deer trails while shed hunting. That is not as easy with traditional shoes.
Nice pic Smokey, but I'll bite. You either had a very long pole, or used a drone to get the shoes out there and stick like that side by side.
Jeff in MN's Link
I bought a pair at Sams club today on markdown to $50. Youkon 825 it is 8x25 inches. (up to 200#) Comes with poles and bag. Regular price around $80. If you are close to a Sams club and interested you should get there fast. Or check at Sams club online.
These were in the area where seasonal stuff usually is but they could be back in their bargain area too.
If Smokey set them out today in the field across the road from me he could have walked them out, turned around and gotten to where he took the pic from and his tracks would be gone. I would say 30+ MPH wind and brand new fluffy drifting snow. I was lucky to get into my driveway without getting stuck until I almost got to the shed. I had just added 4 of those solid 4x4x16 inch cement in the back of the 4WD car too.
I bought used. Local craigslist and ebay. I like Atlas only because they have a good reputation and I have experience with them.
You don't need expensive. Walking in the woods they will get beat up quick. My newest shoes are all scratched up after 1 long day in the woods.
You can buy one set used and if you like it buy a different size used. All for the price of one set of new shoes.
For deep snow/powder you need big shoes. Think mid winter after a snow. For walking in the thick stuff, especially on frozen, packed or packy snow, small shoes are less cumbersome on your feet. Think spring after a few warm days.
Try them on, or at least watch a video of how the bindings work. Good bindings will keep you from getting frustrated.
Different snow conditions favor different types of shoes. I have three; 56" Alaskan- for deep powder, 36" Green Mt(Modified BearPaw)-for swamp & brush, and 30" Tubbs- for ice encrusted snow or steep terrain use. Nothing is one size fits all.
You know what sucks? I just realized my wife brought mine up to our cabin in Phillips and used them for a wall decoration. They are the Alaskan's. Jeff, did you happen to get yours at Sam's in Eau Claire?
L2H, no I got them in Minnesota. Check online, they might have them there.
Another vote for the neoprene laced shoes. These are Iverson 10x56 that I bought new for about $120 right after the 1991 Halloween blizzard and they have held up incredibly well with no maintenance. This is my second set of rubber bindings and they work but I'm not in love with them. Might try a different binding when these wear out.
I originally bought a a different brand of shoe that was rawhide webbed and the webbing got water logged and stretched out of shape the first day I used them. They looked like a rawhide chew that a dog had been chewing on. I know the rawhide ones have been around for years without problems but the ones I got weren't sealed properly or something so beware.
Mike-
You can't beat the Iverson neoprene "H" bindings with those shoes!
My Atlas / LL Beans arrived today while I was at a show in Wausau chewing the fat with Hoot.
Give them a test run tomorrow.
If a chart recommends a certain size get the next bigger size. You will not regret it.
Gave my new ones a shake down run this afternoon on a walk checking to see if my trail cameras were still above the snow.
I’m quite happy with them. Flotation was decent in the deep powder that we have.
The bindings are quick and easy. They hold the boot very well. I purchased the 30” ones.
Do any of you use snow gaiters? Both days I’ve been wet past my knees in regular pants. Been looking online and nothing seems to get very good reviews when looking at ones for hunting.
Droptine, wear wool when there is snow on the ground.
Droptine - I have a KUIU gaiter and one from Kennetrek. They both are really nice compared to going without. I use them now for most of my hunts - snow or not. Wool is good until you end up with 40 lbs of snow clinging to your lower legs.
Cabelas and an old pair from a Frostline kit that I made. Big thing with gaiters and snowshoes is to make sure that they fit on the boots that you will be wearing. Many gaiters are ok for hiking boots, but not big enough to zip up around larger pack boots.
Get the wood Alaskan type shoes w/ the rubber bindings that Myke, Smokey and Cheesehead and you'll be set. In deep powder I"ve yet to see an aluminum shoe that worked. These were available around $110 but this year they seem to be over 200
Interesting thread with good information. I tried some traditional shoes a long time ago with not much luck. I had to trim some young walnuts for a program i signed up for thar had a 3/1 deadline. Spent 8 hours yesterday in a aluminum pr I bought 20 years ago but never used. No way I could drive in unless I had a snowmobile. Maybe I had the right kind of snow but I found them maneuverable. Guess I misjudged how effective they could be.
Mark me down for the Iverson Alaskans as well. The noise from the aluminum shoes bugs me. The Alaskans provide better float, especially when wearing a pack. I wear my Kennetrek or Outdoor Research gaiters with them. In deep snow, in the woods, with a pack, ski poles or trekking poles are a good bonus IMO.
Close to 7' shoes. Was out yesterday and they are some work.
Of course, in 3' of powder, the alternative would be some work.
I’m tired just looking at them things. Holy buckets!
The old ideas were hampered by properties of materials and keeping the weight in check. webbing instead of more snow blocking was a weight trade off. Total blocked area vs body weight is the controlling factor for any given snow condition. Sides cut off a 4 gallon milk crate are good in dense snow, and free. Trick is to take some of the perpendicular parts for strength. Larger shoes for less dense snow can be fashioned from bakery crates. add lightweight material to sheath as needed. cheap as me, almost.