Hunting Recurve?
Wisconsin
What makes a good hunting recurve opposed to a target or practice recurve?
A target recurve bow can be used for hunting just like a hunting recurve bow can be used for target, however there are certain functional design features of any recurve bow which more favorably lend themselves to one particular application as opposed to the other.
What might the basic design feature differences be? 1.) Bow weight, generally hunting recurve bows have a heavier draw weight than a target recurve. 2.) Bow length, generally hunting bows are shorter than target bows. 3.) Bow riser design, (wood riser) somewhat slimmer and less bulky riser design on a hunting bow than on a target bow. 4.) IMO hunting bows should be camo colored, either by the manufacturer or by the owner. I used to spray camo paint all my hunting bows. 5.) Hunting vs. target bow...I'm sure there will be differences in limb designs also. (This might include differences in types of laminations, number of lams, and particular recurve design.) 6.) Riser design...hunting vs. target...you may find target models offer more variability options with regard to being able to add various accessories...stabilizers (multiple), sights, arrow rest types, etc.
Hope this helps. Just basic ideas. I'm sure there are more up-to-date opinions which can be offered and they may very well be more accurate, but this is just what I recall from back in the day. If you work with a reputable dealer in trad gear I'm sure they will get you set up with the correct bow and one designed for your intended use.
Are you going to buy one bow or two? A hunting bow and a practice bow can be one in the same. The same qualities that make a good hunting bow make a good practice bow. IMHO you should start with one bow.
Are you brand new to trad archery? From my experience if I was new I would start with 40# or less for hunting or practice.
And, what suggestions for a takedown? Traveling with the recurve is tough but a takedown would be so much easier to pack in luggage.
I have always practised with my hunting bow.
Some people shoot lighter weights for target because they dont have the strength to handle a heavier weight for long shooting sessions. If that appeals to you, buy a takedown with a couple sets of limbs. Lighter set for target and a heavier set for hunting. If you only want one bow, 45 lbs will kill anything in North America, and its a weight that should easily be handled by any average build guy no matter how much shooting you do.
My hunting and target bow is one and the same. I've shot sticks only for decades, but the ravages of time have seen me drop from 70 to 53lbs. Matching and tuning arrows, that's plenty.
I'm a "trad" rarity in that I only have 2 bows...not a room full :^) One recurve & one longbow. The recurve is a takedown, and that is handy for travel. The longbow is a one piece and is my weapon of choice...but I now only hunt here at home so travel isn't an issue.
My hunting and target bow is one and the same. I've shot sticks only for decades, but the ravages of time have seen me drop from 70 to 53lbs. Matching and tuning arrows, that's plenty.
I'm a "trad" rarity in that I only have 2 bows...not a room full :^) One recurve & one longbow. The recurve is a takedown, and that is handy for travel. The longbow is a one piece and is my weapon of choice...but I now only hunt here at home so travel isn't an issue.
Like others have said, depends on the level of experience. For someone starting out, start light work to heavy, but don't over bow yourself. Take-downs are nice because you can have a light set of limbs and a heavier set of limbs for hunting with the same bow. Draw length is going to decide on the length of bow you can shoot. I'm at 31" draw so I stick with 62" on up. Lots of good info on the Leatherwall and You Tube.
to me what makes the bow is the ARROW, and the proper weight..... I shoot a heavy arrow, heavier than recommended, but its what gives me the penetration
Beyond what others have already mentioned, a heavier arrow and riser will quiet the bow too, another benefit. And I know that a glossy finish makes those exotic woods pop out, but not the best for stalking. So a matte finish is a desirable trait. A B50 string will help with being more quiet. I like otter fur or musk ox fur as string silencers. I like a quiet bow over speed. Quiet is good for a hunting bow! Target bows can be as noisy as you want.
Yes heavier arrows & I would tune the string until comepletely quiet .
As far as gloss go's , bow socks were easy to find in the day .
Historically hunting bows were shorter with more poundage. Obviously a shorter bow for quicker shots, maneuverability in brush, tree. More poundage for killing penetration. Target bows were longer for stability and less weight for longer holds, more accurate shooting without need for penetration. But then everybody knew this in the 60's and 70's.
Lol...that purty WhippenStick got refinished matte...and it looks even better. Same bowyer for my longbow, same woods, matte finish. It's fast and quiet...my fav I've ever had.
Rallison, I like your backstop. What are you using as the backstop material? (the green stuff).
It's an archery net I got from 3 Rivers Archery. I got it for my wife...her bow's the one on the right. But, she doesn't need it anymore for 20 yards and in.
You should practice with the bow you intend to hunt with, regardless of which one you choose, but if you're asking a good hunting bow I'd say you can't go wrong with a used Bear. Kodiak, Magnum, Grizzly are just a few. Lots of them so prices are reasonable.
