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So, a few months back I was mentioning ever since I dropped the length on my bow it seemed I can't get the poundage to more than 55. The bow says fully adjustable up to 70lbs. Most were quick to blame the string being worn out and I figured that as well. I finally put a new string on and wanted to get the draw weight. Sure as shit I got the Alan bolts cranked all the way down and can only get it up to 56.. I'm totally stumped on this. I know it's more than enough to kill a deer I just prefer to be around 60 to 70. any Input would be greatly appreciated!!
Ok. So get your specs on the bow for Axle to Axle and brace height. Start there.
You said before that you put your string on your bow yourself.....I’m guessing you never checked to see if these measurements were set to factory standard and you just put it on?? That would throw your draw weight off as well as a lot of other things.
The height is located on the side of the bow. You adjust the axle and put a screw in and that's it.
You measure from the middle of the pin in the axle to the other pin. That’s your axle-to-axle measurement. Let’s say it’s 32”.....Then Your brace height is from the string to the back of riser. Let’s say 7”. Go online and find the specs for your bow. Then check your bow. If you are off.....it will affect everything. Plus, if your cables are off....it will also affect your draw weight.
So......if it’s off, you will have to twist or untwist your string. And do the same to your cables, if needed.
Maybe bring it to someone who knows. Bow shop or someone who can show you how it works.
And did you see the sea bass thread lol....
It is not just your string length that is important. Your cable length must also be correct. A stretched cable will result in less draw wt.
Get off the bathroom scale..lol
Some of those ready to shoot bows have a wide range in draw length adjustment as well as draw weight. There are also different posts to attach the string to. That being said there is a min and max draw weight for each draw length. So the 70lbs may only be able to be achieved at max draw length and string on a certain post. Not sure which bow you have but maybe check into this on owners manual.
Shawn, Where in the draw are you measuring 56#?
If the bow is set for a 20% let off(the point at which the draw weight is at its peak), 56# is 80% of 70#.
That's why I visit my local pro shop. Never a worry if I did something wrong.
I use a scale with a hook on it.. it's used to weigh heavier fish such as stripers.
Shawn,
At full draw, your cams have flipped over the axle and you will be holding less weight than the maximum, right? The maximum draw weight is at the point where the cams flip, not at full draw.
Wb I guess that makes sense. I remember bringing this up but I remember a few said the draw weight shouldn't of changed.
Modern bow Let off should be somewhere between 65% and 85%. That means on a maxed out 70 lb. bow the holding wt. at full draw should be between 14 lbs (at 80%) and 24.5 lbs (at 65%). At the peak of the draw cycle just before cam rollover the draw wt. should be 70 lbs
Shawn,
Bow poundage scales have a sliding high point marker. It rides on the scale pointer and stays at the highest poundage reached, even when the string poundage drops after the let off. So, you reset the marker next to the pointer, attach it to the string (usually an open 180degree steel loop)and then pull the scale, as you would a release, and draw the bow to full draw. The marker will remain at the highest poundage reached when you let down the bow.
Sounds like your string and or cables are not the right length. The best place to start is at the beginning. look up the manufacturers specs on string and cable length. Change both the string AND cables. Make sure they are the length of each matches the manufacturers spec. Make sure you put them on the correct way. Correct posts on the cams. Information from the manufacturer is going to be key here. Once you have strings and cables the correct length and installed correctly. Measure the axle to axle length, ensure that it matches the manufactures spec. then double check by measuring the brace height. Bottom out both limb bolts to do this. Check the measurement from the throat of the grip to the string, that should match the manufacturers spec. If you don't know the manufacturers spec and can't get it, it's going to make it very difficult for you to ensure that your bow is set up correctly. Assuming everything is correct with regards to string and cables and you still can't get the draw weight spec'd...you have deeper problems that may or may not be worth chasing. This isn't rocket science, there are some pretty basic steps that you take when tuning a bow. First and foremost...change strings and cables as an entire set, that eliminates a lot of headaches. Lower priced bows typically use cheaper string materials, that way they can sell the bows cheaper. Consequently the cheaper string materials stretch or more appropriately Creep, which is the term they use for permanent elongation of the fibers that make up the string. You can remedy this to a point by twisting the string and cables but just to a point. At some point you have to replace. If the strings and cables are too long or short your draw weight will be affected in addition to your draw length.
This is a typical force draw curve for a compound bow with cams. The peak weight of the bow occurs just before you reach your draw length, thereby reducing the holding weight to a substantial amount.
Hmmmmm, are you saying he's measuring the draw weight After the cams let off? If so, I completely mis-understood. That never occurred to me. Shawn if you are doing that, you need to read the scale at peak weight... just before the cams let off.
I think Wild Bill solved the mystery.
Totally confused. Wild bill thanks for the info and time. Greatly appreciated!! A target bow!! What an insult!! I paid a whopping $169 for this bow at Walmart. That's what I call top of the line...target bow...sheesh ;)
I have killed two deer with the bow. In all honesty I know it's a pos but I wouldnt say it's a target bow. It shoots nice.. ask kyle..lmfao!!!!
WB's point seems to make sense, unless the cables are off, which seems weird (assuming the string is the same length as before - I think you noted it was Shawn huh?)
It's possible the bow does not have a lot of let off given the pricepoint. (not trying to be insulting there, just noting that the bow may have less let off than say a 450 dollar bow today). Try having a buddy watch the scale to see the max weight achieved. if the max is 55, then it's a real brain twister!
Shawn when you replaced the string did you also replace the cable? I would bet if your true peak draw wt is 56 lbs. Either your string is to short or the cable is to long.
This is a response from the same question you posted on the main forum. This is a guy that knows his stuff. Maybe you are reading the scale after the cams roll over but I find that hard to believe. I'm more inclined to think you have a combination of short string and long cables or it's just a function of the "infinitely" adjustable Bow.
X-Man "Every time you shorten the draw length, the draw force curve shortens. This may or may not decrease draw weight, depending on that bows cam design. Youth bows for example that have 8-10 inches of DL adjustablility lose several pounds per inch, while some of the more expensive bows out there only lose a pound or two per inch. The only bows that do not lose draw weight are draw length specific cams." If you have DL modules, you cannot escape losing DW per inch of DL reduction. It's simple physics.
Shawn,
Make it simple for the rest of us.
Did you read the poundage at full draw, yes or no.
Jerry yes I replaced all the cables and lines. Here are some attached pics.. bill I'm still confused. I hooky scale on the d loop and draw the bow fully. I get a reading of 56#.
I dont know if this helps bill..
Ok to verify the scale part.. there's a small black line that you zero out before you draw. It's the small dial in the center. It goes up with the poundage and then stays at what it maxed out at..
That helps. So you are doing it right and if your scale is accurate your max draw wt is 56 lbs. So you need to set your bow to the correct specs and you should get your draw wt back. You did have a higher draw wt before the new string and cable right?
Pi yes.. when I had it at 29 I had it pulling just under 70 with this scale. And I put a 10lb weight on it to double check
If the cables and string are what’s new they will be the source of your problem. It is hard to believe that dropping one inch of draw length (29 to 28”) would cause you to lose 14 lbs of draw wt.
Jerry no.. same thing.. only pulling 56 with the last string/cable
Jerry it was pulling the same thing with the older cables
What happens if you increase the draw length to 30"?
Shawn watch the video in the link on adjusting your bows draw length. Apparently there is a setting for hunting and one for bow fishing. Make sure your bow is set to hunting.
BB I'm pretty sure I get 70.. I'll try it tomorrow when I get a chance.
If it does increase to 70, then the answer is in X-mans's explanation. There is a reason that the bow manufacturers make draw length specific cams. If it was as simple as adding a huge range of adjustments to a cam without it affecting something else, then everyone would be doing it.
Shawn, The information you've provided will go far in helping us help you.
Jerry - "You did have a higher draw wt before the new string and cable right?" "Jerry it was pulling the same thing with the older cables" - That is at your draw length Shawn, and you may not be able to get 70# with your draw length and the design of this bow.
bb- What happens if you increase the draw length to 30"? Shawn-BB I'm pretty sure I get 70..
By increasing the draw length setting you are increasing the height of the force draw curve(higher poundage at peak), before it flops over into the let off decline to the valley. The bow is capable of 70#, but not at your draw length. So the difference you will feel, when drawing the bow, after lengthening the draw length, is that the point where the cams flip is either closer to your face or beyond your normal draw length.
Does that help with your understanding the problem?
Bb I figured because it's a ready to hunt bow and the whole point of having this type of bow is to adjust it to fit the shooters needs. Once again guess you get what you pay for!
Bill I feel much better with your last post. I'm understanding now.. so basically If I ever wanted a higher draw weight I'd have to put it back up to 29 or 30, which obviously I'm not gonna do. Definitely time for a new bow.
"I know it's more than enough to kill a deer I just prefer to be around 60 to 70."
Out to twenty yards, the difference in poundage is minimal. So, if the bow gives you20% let off, you are holding at 45#, not a bad hold weight.
I shoot a 55# recurve, which at my draw length gives me 53# at full draw. Timing your draw to happen without being seen is key to making the shot.
Good hunting.
Oh my word bill.. 45.. has no wonder I haven't been getting pass throughs. Not to mention my paper tuning was awful. Lol
Shawn, did you ever find your specs for your bow??
Bill is saying 45# is what you are holding after 20% let off. You can get a pass through with 45#, you just need a well tuned arrow and good shot placement. I mentored a young man who shot the biggest buck I've ever seen in CT with a 45# recurve, with a clean pass through.
45# will give you a pass through, and the paper tuning should tell you why. Say for instance you purchase arrows spined for a 70# bow and that isn't what you are shooting them from.
Have you read any books on archery to help you learn? It doesn't sound like you have a mentor.
The bow is still shooting whatever draw weight it's set for, If you're holding 45# that's just the weight you're holding, not the draw weight of the bow. Bye the way, if your bow at 56 lb draw weight has a 65% let off, you're holding 35% of the bows draw weight or 20lbs at full draw. 80% let off you're holding 20% or 11 lbs.
If you have been shooting a bow with too long a draw length you're paper tuning is going to be awful...as a starting point. There are many reasons your paper tuning is going to be awful, too long a draw length is one, poor archery form is another. poor tune is another. It wouldn't surprise me if it was a combination of all.
Best advice i can give is to take your bow to a professional, have him tune it for whatever draw weight you can consistently shoot it accurately at and whatever weight it tunes the best at. Draw weight is of little importance and least meaningful especially given the game you are hunting. 50lb bow is more than enough for 30 yard shots at whitetails. After it's tuned take some lessons, just like golf, you can shoot the bow but if someone else is watching who knows what he is looking at, he can pick up the flaws with your form that you have no idea you are doing and you can work on correcting it. Archery is being able to repeat the mechanics of the shot everytime, without having to think about it, just muscle memory. Practicing errors, is not practice, you will never get better from that method of practice. as a side note, hunting with an untuned bow and using mechanical broadheads as a bandaid for the problem, is a recipe for wounding many animals.
Go to you tube and do a search for nock on archery. John Dudley has lots of videos on how to... He's well worth viewing and can be a huge help.
Wb no mentor at all. Everything I've done in the field is from the help on here and reading, reading and more reading. I find deer behavior interesting and the more I understand them helps me in the field. Bb thanks for the advice. This is where a mentor or family member who hunts comes in handy!
I think everyone is aware that he's dealing with an inexpensive bow. You can still make an inexpensive bow shoot well if you understand how it works. Even inexpensive bows are typically able to shoot better than most people are capable of shooting. The trick is to not try to make it do things it's not capable of doing, like trying to wring 70 lbs of draw weight out of a reduced draw length. Put a quality string and cable on it and it'll be just fine. I don't know how I was able to shoot so well before there was such a thing as $500.00 bows. Let alone $1500.00 bows.
I didn't know there was a crossbow worth anything.
There goes another trad shooter acting as an elitist!
I'm not alone in seeing a cross bow as a string gun, therefore not archery. The greatest downside in the device is short string lifespan. The drawback as a hunting tool is the loud noise it makes on launch.
Something like "point and shoot" cameras relative to the field of photography, skill not required.
Lol sorry Bill but I think Kid summed that up nicely!
I understand where WB is coming from, maybe because I'm old as well :) Bows and technology have changed a lot over the years, but hunting remains the same in my mind. I went from a recurve to a compound due to a shoulder injury, but I still practice, practice, practice and spend lots of time scouting and just enjoying the outdoors.
I do think using a gun is "easier" than using a bow, and using an Xbow is easier than using a long bow, but only when it comes to that second in time for the shot. Finding where the deer live, how they move, when they move, scent control, picking a shooting lane, etc is all the same. The shot is the smallest part of the hunt, but the most important to obtaining a clean kill.
I say anyone who loves the outdoors and participates in our sport is a hunter. There are no "levels" to hunting as far as I'm concerned. Enjoy!!
"argumentum ad hominem" = the tactic of trolls
Looks like another crossbow debate brewing. Turn back now seek dry land.
If I labeled you a dolt, that would be trolling, rather your tactic is, once again, as I said, "argumentum ad hominem".
Well that went to shit like every other thread on here. Kid theres no elephant in the room about my bow being a piece of shit. We are all on the same page. Everyone here knows I got my bow from Wally world and it was dirt cheap. Were past that. I'm posting this thread to get help and maybe some advice. Its easy to say bring it to the shop but when you make 16$ an hr and support a family of 5 needless to say things are tight. The bow shoots well.. I'm very accurate with it. A piece of shit..yes..but a piece of shit i killed two deer with in one season and feel comfortable with. Now if we could get back to the original topic....
https://youtu.be/zjCtHgNEcV0
